Thursday, January 23, 2014

Love Where You Live

A seasonally unusual high pressure zone over Portland recently has kept the sky a bright, clear blue, temperatures low and today, windy. Perfect city walking weather! Today we double looped the Peninsula Park and Overlook Park neighborhoods of North Portland. The architecture of these areas continues with Craftsman, Bungalow and Four Square styles intermingling with infills of sleek modern high rise apartments. The architect Ellis Lawrence designed the Community Center in Peninsula Park in the spirit of an Italian villa, echoing his Albina district Title Wave library re-sale building mentioned in the last blog.
The beautiful formal rose garden of the park is well-maintained with its rows of neatly pruned rose bushes, mowed law strips, stone fencing, fountain and pollarded trees at the pathway intersections. A double row of colossal Linden trees shades the southwest corner of the park and a fancy bandstand graces the northeast corner.  This was the premier rose garden of Portland until the Washington Park Rose Garden was established. According to Karen Foster's research in Portland City Walks "the idea (in 1910) was to use beauty and grand monuments in the inner city as a means of promoting moral and civic virtue". To this end, the community center is decorated with murals of male and female athletes cavorting near the ceiling and an outdoor swimming pool that came to house the penguins of the Portland Zoo before their watery quarters were completed in 1957.

Nearby Portland Community College's Cascade campus preserves a century cherry tree in the middle of the paved parking lot. A small student art museum showcases a rotating art display. The college offers 25 one-year certificate programs, 20 associate degree programs and a general college transfer degree. Nearby Jefferson High School makes it convenient for students to accelerate their education by taking college and high school classes in the same academic year. Another Carnegie-funded library is on Killingsworth, designed in the Jacobethan style by Joseph Jacobberger, a Portland architect. The exterior brick is of the Flemish bond brick style.

Blowing further east on Killingsworth we arrived at the Chapel Pub, another McMenamin brothers "save", housing their corporate headquarters upstairs and a pub on the main floor of what used to be a funeral parlor. Inside is beautiful ironwork by O.B. Dawson, the craftsman who designed all the ironwork in Timberline Lodge on Mt. Hood. Well-preserved and painted in more modern color schemes are Queen Anne and Craftsman homes. A former convent now houses low-income seniors at the Villa Saint Rose. Glazed windows and stained glass grace the facade of the building.

Hopscotching across Interstate 5 and the MAX tracks we boarded the train for a 1.5 mile ride south to the Overlook Park station. This is near the Kaiser North Interstate Medical complex and the 1907 Saint Stanislaus Church, seat of Portland's Polonia or Polish community. Sunday Mass is still said in Polish as well as English and Croatian in a nod to the immigrants who worked in the rail yards and port facilities in 1890. A tribute plaque to one of our group member's grandfather is on the church's wall, commemorating his work in establishing the church.

Overlook Park, a large open acreage, is rimmed by a 130-foot high bluff on the west that affords a view of the railroad yard and Union Station as well as the oil refinery along the Willamette River. Further to the east is the Fremont Bridge, spanning the river from the Albina area to the Northwest area. Houses along the Melrose Drive and Overlook Terrace reflect the English Cottage style. Their front yards are beautifully planted but some of their once-spacious views of the river are being blocked by several newer, two-story homes on the edge of the bluff. The Overlook House, a facility of Portland Parks and Recreation, is a lovely setting for a wedding or reception with its manicured garden and spacious patio on the back of the house.

The adidas America headquarters (properly pronounced ah-dee-DAS rather than the common U.S. pronunciation of ah-DEE-das) uses the former Bess Kaiser Hospital facility as well as numerous other buildings added later to develop a substantial campus. According to Foster, "Working with Portland-based Mercy Corps, the company filled shipping containers with the hospital's cabinets, doors, stainless steel sinks and toilets and sent them to hospitals in Honduras and one of the former Soviet republics."

There is a stateliness about the neighborhoods in this area, proud in design and energetic in renovation. New owners have erected fresh fences, bolstered foundations, built vegetable gardens in kid-decorated boxes and brought modern color palettes to the homes. Without homeowner associations there is no review of what gets done at any particular house but the overall sense is one of neighborly enjoyment with creative freedom.

Buffeting winds finally drove us to seek shelter in some warm eatery so we cut part of our final loop short and headed back to North Interstate Street where we found the Fire On The Mountain buffalo wings restaurant. This tiny but spicy place is colorfully painted,  furnished with well-worn seating and a six seater bar where Lost Coast Tangerine Wheat beer is served on tap. The menu is filled with buffalo wing-inspired sandwiches and real wings, salads and appetizers. The Box Lunch Burger of the day was dripping with raspberry habernero sauce and oozing condiments. The fries got topped with Banana Sauce, a fruity but frisky ketchup. A tiny box of raisins completed the box lunch theme. An icy glass of tap beer was passed around the table to quench the fire in our mouths. The staff was cheery and quick to please. This place deserves another visit.

Across the tracks a new grouping of high rise apartments was recently completed at the corner of N. Interstate and Greeley. Renewal is evident in this part of North Portland as was the intention with the insertion of the MAX light rail yellow line spur here. There's never enough time to adequately explore all the shops and avenues in one day's walk but today's sampling was educational and provided a pleasant 5 mile city walk. As the sign said, love where you live. That is certainly what's happening in this neighborhood. Get out and check it out!

Bubbler fronts the Community Center

Fun for the "kids"

Empty pool that once saw penguins

Male gymnasts

Female dancers

Froggy in the park

Stately Linden trees

Peninsula Park with bandstand

Family garden project

Century cherry tree at PCC

Dryer lint art. Really.

N. Portland Library

Beaded Volvo

Trash to treasure
Duct tape adds to the theme
Chapel Pub and McMenamin Hdqtrs.



Triple turreted house

Bright restoration

Four Square style

Project in the making!

Slow fade to pink

Eyebrow roofline

Dutch Colonial style

Whirly gig

Color!

Convent turned senior housing

Intersection art

NW Indian art motifs at MAX station

Plain and simple

Nice color with the brick on Overlook

Overlook House backyard

Stately bluffs house on Monroe

Empty lots on the bluff

Community action to keep the lot open


Colonial style

Purple house for this neighborhood

Fire on the Mountain menu

The Challenge

We get the job done!


Infill on Interstate

Cotswold Cottage style with random brick facade



Saturday, January 18, 2014

A Walk Through Urban Renewal

Fourteen city winter walkers huddled in the bone-chilling fog to explore the Albina Riverfront to Hilltop Loop as set forth in Karen Foster's Portland Hill Walks book. This area around the Emanuel Hospital complex and Boise-Eliot elementary school roughly parallels Interstate 5 in North Portland. Historical tidbits noted here are rephrased from Foster's book.

The area was first known as Albina, a city platted out in 1872 by Edwin Russell, William Page and George Williams and named for William's wife Albina. Immigrants of many nationalities came to Portland to work in the waterfront dockyards, lumber mills and railroad yards. Albina was described as the center of a business district second only to downtown Portland. In 1941, as America entered World War II, the demand for ships sharply increased and Henry Kaiser, an industrialist, opened shipyards in Portland and Vancouver. A town called Vanport, so named for Vancouver-Portland, sprang up and became a densely populated labor housing district. It was the largest public-housing project in the nation and second largest city in Oregon. By 1943 forty thousand people lived in a place which one year earlier had been vacant bottomland along the Columbia River. May 30, 1948 brought a flood that destroyed most of the living area and displaced eighteen thousand people. Most of these people migrated into the Albina area.

I-5/405/Kerby St. cement "octopus"
In the late 1950's churches, businesses and 476 housing units were leveled to make way for the Memorial Coliseum, and the commercial district relocated to the intersection of Williams and Russell. Interstate 5 was constructed soon after, removing more houses and businesses. The civil unrest of the 1960's dealt another blow to Albina through riots and destruction. The last blow came in 1970 when Emanuel Hospital razed 33 blocks in the center of the neighborhood for the Emanuel Hospital Urban Renewal Project. However, Federal funds ran out leaving many buildings vacant rather than being renewed. In the 1990's, young homeowners looking for bargains began buying up cheap homes and repairing them. This began a revitalization of the area, pressing home prices up to less affordable prices. 2004 saw the addition of the MAX Yellow Line bring new traffic to the area. Businesses saw new opportunities for expansion.

One of our group members has a personal history in the area, notably the White Eagle Cafe, originally owned by her grandfather and father. It was a boarding house and restaurant/bar serving the labor force of the area. The McMenamin brothers currently own the building and have turned it into one of their stock historic hotel/eateries. The Widmer Brothers Brewery is nearby.

Our four mile walk was a journey through Portland's early history, up close and personal as we witnessed still-delapitated buildings awaiting the magic touch of new businesses and homeowners. Those homes and buildings that have experienced revitalization are a tapestry of bright colors, modern store fronts and signage, attractive shops and restaurants. The salvaged historic places are a testimony to investment vision, money and hard work and are places that the current generation of Portlanders can visit and enjoy.

A planned stop at Rebuilding Center's warehouse was too brief. This is a business that salvages everything imaginable from houses and buildings being torn down or remodeled. One person's trash is another's treasure. Walking aisles of doors, windows, fireplace mantles, bathroom fixtures and hardware inspired thoughts of "how could I use this?" Shoppers pulled carts piled with odd items and salesmen discussed novel uses for pulleys, beams and pieces of glass. One of our walking group had bought a used toilet here to avoid having to install a low flush type. I stumbled upon an antique-appearing free standing mailbox which could be used as a garden ornament but ended up on my front porch as an amusing entry "object d'art". If the final scene of the Indiana Jones film "Raiders of the Lost Ark" comes to mind, this is what the warehouse looked like: seeming acres of objects and not enough time to explore them all!

Lunch at Tasty and Son, located in the building where the Chop charcuterie is housed, was a delightful experience in community dining and plate sharing with strangers, conversation being the door that opened new connections. My table companion, Omar, recently relocated to Portland via Senegal and New York City. He was a charming meal companion, as was the psychoanalyst beside him and the other people sharing the farm-style table. The food was inventive and freshly prepared one dish at a time and we were encouraged to share tastes around the table as the plates arrived. The European family eating style was a positive change-up from the usual closed table dining experience.

Finishing our walk we passed Title Wave, the award-winning building that was once the Albina Library. Designed in 1912 by Ellis Lawrence in the Spanish Renaissance style, it originally housed books in most of the European languages to accommodate the needs of the neighborhood's diverse immigrant population. It was funded by the Carnegie Library Building Fund and is decorated with fabulous polychrome glazed terra-cotta pilasters and window boxes. In 1919 it was designated by the American Institutes of Architects as one of the ten best buildings in Portland. In 1988 it became Title Wave, part of the Multnomah County library system selling its unneeded books. Sales have generated $1.5 million in revenues from over 700,000 titles.

Whatever weather Portland dishes out, brave the elements and walk through history as  you explore the many fascinating neighborhoods of the city. The research available in Foster's books will enrich your journey and help you to appreciate the city you live in or near. Portland is weird and wonderful. Get to know it better through city walks while you wait for the forest trails to open. Happy walking!

Pre-walk history lecture

Smartly dressed 

The "disappearing" Fremont Bridge

Renewal needed here!

Project anyone?

Tiled entry step

Touring White Eagle

Moorish influence

Karen's father R.

Original tiled floor in White Eagle

Karen's father behind the bar. Note the floor.

Upstairs rooms for rent

Mural 

Repurposed space; the color? Not so much!

Mural depicting Albina's history as designed by gradeschool children

Modern in-fill housing

Bicycle Portland

Takin' a swing!

Colorful storefront

Remodeler's dream resource

Part of the window aisle

Doors anyone?

Going purple or white?

Mural on Williams Avenue

Paneled art

Victorian roof cresting, an architectural finishing touch in an era obsessed with detail.

Lively coloring

Interesting color combo

Century trees

New among the old

Need a project? 

Treehouse from salvaged items

Center for Self-Enhancement

Lunch stop

Bar color

Sharing plates  at lunch

Original curb stamp

A neighborhood church

Title Wave 

"Antique" mail box