Saturday, May 31, 2014

Just A Walk In The Park


Our six mile hike today began at the Oregon Zoo and nearby Oregon Vietnam Veterans Memorial. This area can be conveniently reached by the MAX railway line. Gathering in the morning dampness that followed a night of rain, we solemnly walked the paved spiral pathway of the memorial. Names of deceased veterans are carved in silent black granite walls along the route, giving quiet homage to the men and women who have given their lives for their country. It is a sobering reminder of the human cost of war. An allee of Hawthorne trees line the entry to the memorial where a granite pool gives pause for reflection. A red rose left at the base of one wall suggested a lost love; a note tucked in an envelope perhaps left thoughts too painful to declare out loud.
Rising to the trailhead, we entered Portland's premier 5,000 acre municipal Forest Park, situated along seven miles of the western hills of the city and offering over 70 miles of trails and fire lanes to hikers, joggers, mountain bikers, birders and general nature enthusiasts. Over 100 species of birds can be located within the park as well as a menagerie of creatures large and small. 40 miles of the trails encircle the city and have entries at all compass points. See these articles for more details.

This area of the park is part of the city's lavish arboretum, a vast collection of specimen trees and shrubs, often labeled with botanical and common names. Some of the trees are original old growth, while many others are second growth and aging nicely in place. The Wildwood Trail, highly popular with joggers and dog walkers, winds through the forest in switchbacks, over foot bridges, up and down the terrain and intersects with a number of other named trails. It extends 27 miles through the park. Years of leaf and needle drop coat the trail, making it soft under foot and quiet so that it masks the rhythmic tread of runners overtaking hikers. Passing on the left!

Elevation gains and losses are frequent on this trail, providing a nice workout for slow and quick travelers alike. Because this is a forest preserve, it mimics the forests of the Mt. Hood and Gifford Pinchot National Forests in its density, variety and layering yet remains within the boundaries of city. Ferns and wildflowers weave through the undergrowth, more sparse in the drier areas and plentiful near moist patches where tiny water flows follow the geography down to join major river tributaries. Various bird calls filter through the treetops, providing a kind of background music. Beads of leftover rain stud the leaves and fronds of low lying fauna. Curious examples of tree roots and ancient-armed evergreens mingle with flowering shrubs as they all reach high for their share of sunlight.

Carefully crossing busy Burnside Street we entered the final steep climb to our destination for the day: the Pittock Mansion, home of city mogul and Oregon pioneer Henry Pittock and his wife Georgiana. Open to the public, this museum-like mansion sits overlooking Portland's downtown area. It has large landscaped grounds surrounding the main house, a gate house and a gardener's house turned gift shop. The house is decorated inside for various holidays and can be reserved for social events in the basement. As a wedding photo venue, it offers spectacular backdrop views of the city and mountains beyond, especially on a clear day.

A picnic at the Pittock was our contribution to the social scene at the mansion on this day. Each hiker toted goodies along to share with the group, making lunch a banquet of taste treats such as homemade hummus and garden-fresh salsa, rhubarb chutney with cream cheese and apricots atop crackers, white stilton cheese with mango and ginger, almond roca and chocolate hazelnut tarts. A thoughtful addition of fancy paper plates punctuated the sophistication of the event. Other visitors to the mansion lounged on benches or sat on the lawn to take in the vistas, perhaps wishing they could join our happy foodie group.

The return trip to various vehicles took a shorter route and passed by an oddly exposed tree root, a yellow flowering tree and more citizenry enjoying their park. Because this park belongs to all Portland and vicinity residents, plan a day to explore (with a map please!) and enjoy this crown jewel of the Northwest. You'll be amazed at what you discover.

Winding through the forest

Pittock Mansion

Enjoying the city view

Looking forward to Glacier

Pittock landscape

"Octopus" tree of sorts

Ghost roots

Happy  hikers

Specimen tree


Final four photos courtesy of J. McCoy

Thursday, May 22, 2014

Coyote Wall and The Labyrinth

May 22, 2014 hikers
Coyote Wall and Labyrinth Loop March 28, 2013 (repost)
March 28, 2013 hikers

Can you say "ten"? It was that kind of day in the Gorge east of Bingen and White Salmon as we explored a new trail with five eager hikers. It being Spring Break we were joined by two of our own who are teachers but were out of school so able to join us on this spectacular hike. The weather was dry of course, it being Dryday, with temps around 63, a slight breeze, non-noteworthy drops of liquid and plenty of open spaces.

Giant boulders have broken off Coyote Wall and tumbled down on WA Hwy 8, which is why it is not used anymore. The cracks in the stone walls were a bit intimidating as we considered an escape plan should we hear any rumblings overhead. The trail began at ancient wooden fence posts and rose in serpentine fashion across the face of the hill. Divergent trails, mostly established by mountain bikers, crisscrossed the main trail, and without any signage, it was challenging to determine which trail to take. The map in Curious Gorge was our guide as we climbed higher and  higher, closer and closer to the edge of Coyote Wall.

Eagles soared above us on the rising currents blowing up the hill, yellow-breasted whistling birds caught our eye and we kept a keen lookout for bouncing, careening mountain biking boys as they kept returning again and again, heedless of and thrilled by the steep slopes. Wild flowers were evident all around, from tiny purple and white varieties to the flamboyant golden balsamroot clumps. Lupine and Yarrow are not far behind.

The panoramic views of the Gorge kept us turning around and gazing down the hill, admiring the vastness of the Columbia River's carvings. We stopped for a lunch break about half way up the hill, marveling at how fortunate we are to live in such a beautiful part of the world. We lounged amid the grasses and flowers until a tick was  noticed in the grass, thus ending our casual respite. The top of a hill is so alluring; we continued to climb, enjoying the eagles' acrobatics and chatting with fellow hikers and bikers with dogs, all claiming this March day as a signal to get out and get going.

Venerable oaks dotted the hills, providing photo ops in their framing of the Gorge or just in their statuesque silhouettes. A very unusual rebar fence post was a curious anomaly as we wondered how it was curled so tightly and better yet, why would someone go to that much trouble? Cairns, tiny waterfalls and basalt cliffs added to our delightful day high above the river. Pictures may suffice where words are inadequate to relate this wondrous day, which initiated our hiking calendar. Join us when you can as we explore the astounding variety and beauty of the Northwest trails!

Trailhead

Old cattle shute

Part of the lower trail

Shooting stars

Crumbling wall

Lower trail river view to the east

Ancient fencing

Crazy racing trail riders

Cairn with a view

Mountain biker and her dog

Balsamroot

Resting at the top, but not for long!

Giant tick in the grass

Wildflowers

Bent rebar fence adjunct

Picturesque oak

Columbia River from higher up

Basalt columns

River view

Topped out hikers




Coyote Wall

Thursday, May 15, 2014

Bouquets and Views: Angel's Rest Hike

The Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area boasts 77 waterfalls on the Oregon side and dozens of day hikes within 60 miles of Portland, encompassing something for everyone. Angel's Rest trail at the I-84 exit 28 is one of the more popular. Only 2.4 miles in, but steadily up, this trail passes a lovely cascading waterfall that echoes through the forest before you can see it. The stream that feeds it is crossed by a Forest Service bridge at a spot where hikers can pause to soak hot, weary feet in the icy waters before finishing the hike.

The trail, at times wide and smooth, is more often beset with rounded or angular rocks that make for rough footing. Given that this trail sees thousands of pairs of hiking boots annually, it is in reasonably good shape.
On this trip we saw people with river sandals, light weight tennies as well as full on hiking boots. It was mostly a youthful crowd today, shirtless, waterless young men, cell phones glued to their hands and shorts-clad young ladies nearly sprinting up the trail and returning before we could complete our hike. There were a few more mature men and women, huffing and puffing along with us on a muggy, hot Thursday. The lack of a breeze made the air heavy for those of a certain age, so the climb to 1584 feet was slow but steady.

The profusion of wildflowers made for delightful visual bouquets consisting of star-flowered solomonseal, candyflower, twinflower, large solomonseal, bleeding heart, newly opening orange aquilegia/columbine, carpets of cobalt blue-deep purple larkspur, salsify, Nootka rose, Pacific Coast iris as well as trail-edging mats of pink, yellow and white flowers. Thimbleberries were in full bloom, promising bright red berries later in the season. At one point we spotted a garter snake looped over a low shrub, taking its morning sunbath. Once discovered by our group of chatting women, it darted off to the shade of the undergrowth, no doubt waiting to return to its quiet resting spot. Birds called to one another along the face of the cliff, some soaring high above the rocky walls in search of ground-level snacks.

The primary reason for taking the Angel's Rest trail is for the astounding 270 degree view of the Columbia River and the mountains that pop above it. From the outcropping of a landing at the top, you can see all the way to Portland, Camas and Washougal on the Washington side, Beacon Rock and east toward Hood River. The enormous volume of water in the river is striking from this perspective as it winds its way to the sea. No longer populated by the cataracts of Lewis and Clark's day, the dams on the river have given it a wide, smooth ribbon appearance, reflecting the various states of the sky, from bright blue to colorless grey. Remnants of the 1991 forest fire that touched this part of the Gorge are still visible in charred, barren tree trunks, but the regrowth is slowly burying them in bursts of foliage.

Pack a lunch, plenty of water, add your trekking poles and a sturdy pair of shoes and you're ready to enjoy this favorite Gorge hike. Take your time, enjoying the scenery and peek-a-boo view points as you climb high above the mighty Columbia and marvel at this scenic wonder we call home.

Thimbleberry blossoms

Rocky trail portion

Stop and soak your hot feet!

Pacific Coast iris

Forest fire remnants 

Trail? Go slow!

Lunch with a view

Tree above the Columbia River

Looking east upriver. Mt. Adams peeking out.

Rocky outcropping

Weary poles

Trail-edging larkspur