Journalist By Nature: June 2014

Tillamook Headland map

In 1803 Congress appropriated funds that allowed President Thomas Jefferson to send his private secretary Captain Meriwether Lewis and a companion William Clark to explore the western reaches of the middle of the North American continent in an effort to locate and map a route to the Pacific Ocean. This expedition was intended to strengthen land claims in the Oregon Territory for the United States as well as scout out and catalog the various indigenous people groups, native plants and animals of the regions along the way. Although Lewis and Clark often followed rivers on their way west, once they arrived at the Pacific Ocean they turned south along the coast in search of whale blubber for fuel. Twenty miles south of the Columbia River mouth lies a magnificent headland known today as Tillamook Head. It is here that you can retrace the expedition's footsteps and see for yourself just what made Clark write "I beheld the grandest and most pleasing prospect which my eyes ever surveyed."

This 6.3 mile one-way hike begins at Indian Head Beach just out of Ecola State Park in Cannon Beach, Oregon. It requires two cars, one at each end of the trail, unless you want to return to the starting point and thus double your mileage. While driving to the trailhead we passed a small cluster of elk that had bedded down in the forest for the previous night. Sleepy eyed cows and bulls stared in silence as we drove slowly past, snapping pictures of the sight. At the trailhead, a car of surfers tugged on wet suits, hefted boards under arms and headed for the tiny breakers below.

Cue the Beach Boys' music

Heading for the actual trailhead we ambled northward up a gentle incline into the forest. A small stream gurgled underneath a footbridge, lush greenery lining every crevice along its downhill path. An early viewpoint on the trail showed us the southern beaches littered with large upward thrusts of pillow lava rocks, remnants of volcanic activity of old. The rocks formed as hot lava met cold sea water.

Southern beaches

Venturing further into the forest, we climbed along the face of the headland, weaving near and then far away from the steep cliffs that form as chunks of soil and rock fall away into the ocean below. At the cliff edge a cool upward draft of sea breeze offers a pleasant moment of air conditioning to heated hikers laboring through the climb. The forest is populated with several generations of timber, the oldest being the ancient ones, most of which were logged in the last century. Seven foot high stumps remain with their large platform notches once used by two man crosscut sawyers. Although these stumps are totally dry rotted, they remain as a shadow testament to the size of the original timber. A few of these giants escaped the saw and stand as immense guardians above the newer stands of trees. This ancient forest was likely the one Lewis and Clark encountered in their trek here. The next generation of trees stand thicker than the first one, younger so smaller in diameter but tall and ramrod straight as they stretch for the sky. Tiny third generation trees are sprouting from the forest floor, hemlock and Doulas fir ensuring yet another century of growth.

Low lying salal, oxalis and bunchberry coat the fallen logs with a green blanket that hides the tiny insect world busy at decomposition work at the soil level. Shades of green provide a mottled look at the feet of the trees, leading the eye through the forest to the blue background of the sky and sea. The trail, wide at first, becomes a narrow soggy bog in a hundred places, requiring some fancy step work to avoid becoming, well, bogged down. Unseen waters seep up in random places and soak the soil into a muddy, slippery mess. Boards have been laid down in some places, chopped branches and rocks in others to provide a higher footing for hikers.

Breaking into a clearing we discover a cluster of shed-roofed cabins complete with bunk platforms, a sheltered picnic table, a firewood cache and fire pit. Supplied by the park, this place marks a campsite of Lewis and Clark. It can be used for overnight stays and day hike picnics. Nearby, moss-covered cement chimneys record the presence of WWII bunkers, long decomissioned but once a vital part of the coastal security when it was feared that Japanese submarines would approach our western shores. The bunkers are locked to prevent touring but they present a Hobbit-like image under a hillside of dirt, trees and ferns.

After a suitable lunch we pressed on toward the summit of Tillamook Head, winding through, up and down and around the forested headland for an elevation gain of 900 feet and views of the lighthouse turned columbarium. Located 1.2 miles offshore, the lighthouse sits atop a rock surrounded by ocean. As the viewpoints become available on the trail, different parts of the coast can be seen, from Seaside and the mouth of the Columbia River to Neahkahnie Mountain. Sword ferns sprout like green fountains punctuating the forest floor. Last winter's long freeze seems to have spurred plant growth beyond what is normal. Trees have longer growth buds, ferns and undergrowth are larger and more lush. The whole forest is bursting with green life as if taking one huge invigorating breath.

Trailhead at Seaside

Ascending boggy trail

In the steep descent from the summit, the trail becomes more narrow, crushed on every side by stretching plants, winding, rocky and even more boggy. Roots act as stairsteps in places and tired legs finally give up trying to step around the bogs and just trudge through them, coating boots and sucking trekking poles deep into the mire. The trail breaks out in a new housing development in The Cove neighborhood of south Seaside where a small parking lot holds our ride. I would recommend starting the hike at this point so that the harder ascent is managed with fresh legs.

Taking a lightweight, flat 2.6 mile round trip stroll from Arcadia Beach State Park to Hug Point State Park is a great way to loosen up the legs and enjoy a very lightly visited area. The interesting history about Hug Point is that it was traversed by adventurous travelers in early automobiles as the beach was the only north-south access prior to the construction of Highway 101. Wagon wheel and tire tracks can still be seen on the rocky ledge there.

Model T era

Today

This beach provides interesting shallow caves to explore during low tides (always be mindful of the tide schedule) and a wind-free pocket against the towering walls of Hug Point where a picnic could be set out. Because the Oregon coast is open to the public at all points, there is sand and room for everyone and a soul-soothing ocean roar to tame the stresses of city life. Take a day and venture to the coast for a walk through a forest or a stroll on the sand. It's always available for no charge!