Saturday, July 30, 2016

Wonderful Waterfalls

Eons of geologic activity in the form of volcanoes, glacier movement, the pushing, lifting, scrunching, tearing and piling of the earth's surface and water erosion eventually, and at least for the time being, have left a frying pan-shaped rift in the forest lands of the Cascade Range foothills southeast of Silverton, Oregon. Silver Falls State Park's 9000 acres offer the curious in search of adventure and history an opportunity to see the results of those earth-shaping forces. See here, here and here for more details on the history and development of the park. It involves indigenous peoples, pioneers, farmers, conservationists, forest fires and legislative acts. It was quite literally built from the beach up! Check out those links.

Heading for the hills from various compass points around the metro area we rendezvoused at the South Falls Lodge parking lot well ahead of the more casual hoards that so often choose to get a later start. This state park hosts over one million visitors each year. That's two million feet trudging the trails and providing their own earth-shaping force.

The fresh warm air whispering through the firs of this place reminded us that the day would be a hot one. The late July sun was already beating down with measured ferocity, gearing up for its 95 degree goal. Eleven chattering women, already engaging in catch-up conversations, checked the trail map on the park information board and collectively headed out in a counter clockwise direction to begin the Trail of Ten Falls, a tour de force of all the park's waterfalls. Varying mileages were listed from seven to 9 miles, but all paths would lead back to the lodge.

Silver Creek, flowing out of the Cascade foothills, wraps is north and south tributaries around the park in a watery embrace, providing the source for the ten waterfalls and flowing eventually into the Pudding River on its way to connect with the larger Willamette River, the mighty Columbia and mixing into the Pacific Ocean. Hikers are rewarded early in their journey with a view of the South Falls. The cake layer structure of the canyon basalt contributes to the unique forms of each cataract, some spilling over a ledge into a pool 100 feet below while others slip and slide down a series of rocky steps to create a veil of water that widens into a fog of water droplets and misty spray.

Following the Canyon Trail along the south fork we thankfully encounter a series of steps that replace a slippery slope unsuitable for safe descent. Some of the rock structures are the work of the Civilian Conservation Corps, a work group created by President Roosevelt in 1934 that helped develop the park architecture. Lower South Falls is the next scene on the trail just before meeting up with the Maple Ridge Trail at the confluence of the north and south forks.

Shading maples and firs line the footpath and protect us from the sun's beating rays. Wild flowers are pretty much gone at this time of year but bright red thimbleberries punctuate the green scene and tempt hikers for a reach-and-taste move. A puckering sweet morsel is the reward. Sparkling pools and lazy sections of the creek present grandiose ideas for backyard pleasures, albeit unrealistic considering the size. Nonetheless the sounds of moving water bestow a sense of peace and relaxation as the miles add up.

After a one mile gap there is a cluster of falls: Lower North, Double, Drake and Middle North falls all within a half mile space. At the Winter Trail juncture there is a bridge and two paths to choose. Proceeding another mile will take you to Twin Falls and the North Falls in a narrow loop route that returns you to Winter Falls. Take the bridge and go directly to Winter Falls and back to the Lodge. There you can compare route mileage with your companions via step apps and counters. Most of our group took over 19,000 steps to complete the entire hike. Ahhhh, the technology of hiking!

There are a variety of hiking loops and backtracks possible in this vast park but be sure to have a map with you so you can identify the falls and the intersecting trails. All trails lead "home", but you might be late in arriving if you don't know where you are. But you can take consolation in the timeless saying "Wherever you go, there you are!"

Pack a picnic and the kiddos, take a date but leave your canine at home (no dogs allowed on the trails) or just hoist a knapsack and do a solo hike to enjoy some of Oregon's finest pleasures that are readily available to all comers. As Oregon's crown jewel in the state parks system, this is a place you'll want to visit many times over. As the seasons change, so will the scenery and water flow. Hiking through the park one year while waiting for a Thanksgiving turkey to bake, we were impressed by the wildness of the waterfalls. Certainly not the tame ones you see in the summer. Just go!

South Falls
Looking through the falls


Trail under rock ledge







Lower South Falls



Trail conversation

Quiet reflections

Winter's log snag

Lower North Falls





Woodland solitude

Drake Falls



Lunch bunch



"Beast", a trail kid

Giant Douglas fir

Hiking beauties