As a last request of sorts, before she moves out of state, our hiking companion Carla requested we tackle the fabled 4T, one of the few hikes she has not yet experienced with our group. The 4T travel route, designed to showcase four aspects of Portland's transportation system, is a nine mile loop around town, taking you from the Oregon Zoo through parts of Forest Park up to Marquam Hill, down to the south riverfront and through the westside downtown area all via different modes of transport. Lest you assume this is a drive by trip highlighting city scenes from the comfort of an automobile, let us be clear. This is a wheel-foot-gondola sort of trip requiring hiking shoes and helpful poles, camera, pocket change or a credit card and a three to four hour block of time, depending on how fast you want to travel and what you want to see.
Taking the MAX TRAIN from any one of the outer districts, you can meet at the Oregon Zoo train station and walk down to the Highway 26 overpass. Carefully crossing the various on and off ramps, you make your way east to the well marked TRAIL. Entering the verdant forest on an oft-trod path you head uphill, winding to and fro through a mixed flora park crammed with Douglas firs, wild rhododendrons, ferns of all kinds, deciduous maples and ash with moss and ivy clinging for traction on any available surface. Tiny floral faces of white and yellow smile as we pass them by, the larger cousins of trilliums, dog violets and foamflower having already spent their lovely blooms.
The four mile trail leads across several residential streets, over wooden slat bridges mounted above streams, up and down the varied terrain of the west hills, strolling by the Marquam Shelter with its fanciful artwork, a tribute to a calm and quiet resting place sited virtually in the middle of an urban center. The last big climb is up the back side of Oregon Health Sciences University campus, itself clinging precariously to the peaks of the east side of the west hills, if you follow my compass terminology. Catching our collective breath, we navigated through a construction site where a remodeling project was taking place and into a quiet garden lined with sunny yellow roses and a splashing fountain.
From this hilly viewpoint we trekked down to the main entry and took a short side jaunt to the famous skybridge, a 660 foot suspended pedestrian bridge joining the main hospital and the Veterans' Administration facility. With walls of glass and steel cross beams, there is a nearly unobstructed 180 degree view of downtown Portland and its eastern edges. Medical personnel in a hurry to cross occasionally grab a segway to make the trip quicker.
Returning to the main hallway we follow the signs to the TRAM, a double gondola carrying patients, staff and visitors up and down the steep hill from hospital to clinics and offices at the south riverfront area. The ride is free going down, but requires a ticket going up for visitors just along for the ride. As a perk for staff and employees the ride is free both ways. The four minute ride affords passengers a wider view of the city including up and down river scenes. But look fast as it's over before you know it.
At this point on the trip you can dine at a large selection of restaurants near the river, wander through the farmer's market, or hop on the TROLLEY or streetcar and head into downtown where a much greater selection of eateries as well as shopping opportunities await your wallet. We dined four blocks south of the tram at Bambuza Vietnamese noodle bowl restaurant, well-known for their fresh and consistent menu. Passing streetcars in bright pink, yellow and green colors reminded us that our journey was not yet complete. Catching a ride on a pink one in honor of Carla's favorite color we rolled our way to the intersection of trolley and train. Here we caught a westbound train back to the Zoo and points beyond, happily reviewing our wonderful day with a dear fellow hiker. We wish her all the best in her new home and know she will return from time to time to explore more trails with her friends in the city.
