Thursday, June 12, 2014

Tamanawas Falls

The Sherman Campground area on the southeast side of Mt.Hood hosts the trailhead to Tamanawas Falls. This four to five mile loop, depending on which option you choose, winds pleasantly and then challengingly through old growth forest along the Cold Spring Creek. Glacier fed waters sluice downward through available terrain on the grooved surface of the mountain, splashing, crashing, pounding their way to larger and larger waterways, eventually ending up in the Columbia River.
Surrounded by fog!

Dark clouds carrying promised rain began to move over the Sandy area and as we made our way around Mt. Hood, the fog surrounded us, obscuring views of the mountain, cheating us of the expansive views otherwise available. Once we split from Highway 26 on to Highway 35, the sky opened blue above us and assured us of a dry and scenic hike. This is typical of the Hood River longitude line: cloudy on the west, sunny on the east.

Parking in a gravel space at the side of Highway 35 we crossed a Forest Service bridge spanning the rushing waters of Cold Spring Creek. Without these wonderful structures, earlier hikers had to ford dangerous streams and lives were lost in some of the attempts. The trail lead upward, wide and soft with fir needles packed down by multitudes of feet. Thirteen hikers chatted merrily on a variety of subjects as the tumbling stream provided background music. Cool breezes ruffled the bright green vine maple leaves like tiny fans swishing back and forth.

Bunchberries, looking like miniature trilliums, lined the trail edges, sharing the space with tiny purple lupine, an occasional orange columbine, yarrow, lots of knickaknick, patches of purple penstemmon and the first blooms of fluffy reddish Indian paintbrush. Downed logs lay like pick up sticks at random angles over the forest floor. Low lying ground covers and small shrubs meandered through these soil feeders, giving the area a roughly carpeted appearance. Douglas firs, hemlocks and occasional pines stretched tall for the sunlight amid burned or diseased companions. Boulders small and large littered the ground, giving pause to consider their origins and placement here.

The dusty trail follows the highway and then turns west into the walled canyons of the mountain. Winds pick up and toss the surface dust about us. The pounding of large volumes of falling water are felt as well as heard in constant companionship on the trail. The supply of water seems endless as it cascades night and day down the gullies. This is a testament to the snow pack held by our mountain.

Mist rising from the falls
As we finally reach the falls, we relish a relaxing lunch stop where we are cooled by the aerating mist of the 100 foot drop of water. Cold Spring Creek dumps over a ledge at the back of a box canyon. Some brave the slippery scramble to the back of the falls and peer out through a circle of rock into the plunging waters. Returning to the trail, we head back over an enormous rock fall that obliterated part of the trail under massive boulders that broke off the wall above us. A restored trail leads us in switchback fashion through the jumble to a return loop above the incoming trail. This portion is less traveled as evidenced by the plants crowding over the trail, narrowing it to a mere twelve inches in width.

Undulating steeply, the trail takes us through a different part of the forest, manifesting the delicate balance between terrain, water, plants and seasonal vagaries that play on the accessibility here. At times we are nose to trail in our upward climb, later we sit back on our heels in descent. Rocks clutter this pathway making footing a challenge. A bright orange butterfly flutters past and a chorus of chirping birds discuss their day's agenda as we pass through their territory. We play hide and seek with the rays of sun that find their way through the upper canopy of tree  limbs. It is an interplay of hot and cool, bright and shadowy, quiet and a symphony of water music.

Stands of larger lupine shout encouragement from the edge of the trail as we pass by, tiny new hemlocks and firs bravely lining the low traffic trail with them. One day they too will be giants in this forest. Huckleberries are beginning to form their tiny dark sweet berries for hikers and bears alike. Several of us, independent of one another, heard a low growl sound towards the end of the trail. Not wishing to explore its source, we hurried onward. The endlessness of this part of the loop finally winds down as we parallel the highway once again, meeting our entry trail and the parking lot. The faster hikers await those less able to move quickly and enjoy snack bars discovered in the bottoms of their packs.  It has been a good day in the forest. As we round the mountain once again, clouds and rain overtake us in an attempt to erase the memory of our sunny walk in the woods. This blog and pictures will counter that notion! Make time for trails soon!


Cold Spring Creek 

Entering the forest

Highway from the trail

Forest Service bridge

Trees for salmon habitat

Rocky part of the trail

Boulder landslide

New trail segment

Origin of the rockslide high above

Bridge taken out in the landslide

Exposed tree root

Push that boulder away!

12 inch tree growing in a rock

Creek flotsam

Arrow in the dirt marks intersection on trail

Creek restoration for the fish



Thursday, June 5, 2014

Ramona Falls: Aqueous Lace

Glamourous Ramona Falls
As pioneers made their way west, obstacles constantly challenged their progress toward the fabled Willamette Valley. In 1845 Sam Barlow was determined to find a shortcut around Mt. Hood for wagon trains. The Columbia River rafting option from The Dalles to Portland and subsequently Oregon City was expensive and fraught with danger. Sam believed he could find a safer overland route that would speed up the western flow of new settlers. In partnership with another businessman, Barlow searched for a way through the forest. He stumbled upon Ramona Falls in that process.

Today recreational hikers drive up Lolo Pass Road to the trailhead of Ramona Falls and climb 1100 feet over 3.6 miles to see this spectacular display of water falling over a wide staircase of basalt rocks. The hike is fairly easy as it follows part of the Sandy River, crosses it and meanders, roller coaster fashion, towards Ramona Falls. Squirrels scold us as we make our way into their quiet territory on a crispy dry trail under sapphire blue skies. The ruggedly scoured canyon holding the dashing river manifests layers of sand, rocks, boulders and downed trees along its banks which seem to grow deeper with each passing year of spring runoff. We hear the river before we see it, the gushing sound of water roiling over rocks drifts through the trees to our ears.

Rhododendron
Wild rhododendrons are just now blooming here, their fuschia pink blossoms randomly dotting the greens of the understory with bits of color. Darker purple Penstemmon bloom furiously in sandy patches along the river bank, defiantly holding their own despite feet of crushing winter snow and sandy desert-like conditions in the summer. Bunchberry, looking like tiny trilliums, poke fresh white faces towards us as we make our way along the trail. Ocean spray with its puffy white clusters of tiny blooms is just beginning to make a show.  Vine maple familiar in its fiery red-leaved fall display is today a bright new green. These airy shrubs line the creek that parallels the upper trail, framing tiny waterfalls and eddies in the water.

The trail alternates between tree root-rutted sand and hemlock and fir needled softness. A strewing of small rocks gives the impression of a dry stream bed at times. A hearty breeze flows along the river canyon and occasionally touches hikers in the forest, especially when the trail squeezes between the creek and a mossy downhill slope. The sounds of water provide music in the forest, each little waterfall adding its unique tone to the aquatic symphony. Layers of greens carpet the forest floor in a tossed salad manner as mosses, then low shrubbery cover the sandy soil, fallen logs and scattered boulders. Newly toppled trees are slowly overtaken by moss as if a blanket was being pulled over them, tucking them in for the long, glacial pace of decomposition.

Andesite walls of rock
About a mile from the falls andesite walls of rock tower above the forest floor, water seeping and dripping down its brownish face, creating small bog areas and filling small channels that feed the creek and later the Sandy River. This type of rock is similar to basalt, a prevalent form of lava flow in the area. Arriving at Ramona Falls, the stunning display of cascading water over shelves of splayed basalt draws thousands of visitors and photographers every year. It has the appearance of billowing organza embroidered with rocks. The dashing water becomes a misty spray that issues into the air around the cove. The changing light of the passing hours on the water has a hypnotic affect on viewers. It's like a slow moving but extended dance that keeps changing and you don't want to miss a single minute of it.

Lunching on a log, we meet other hikers who make this trek regularly and never tire of the sweet, moist air and striking waterfall. Returning the way we came, we complete our 7.2 mile hike under the silent watchfulness of majestic Mt. Hood, peering through the trees like a guardian watching its children at play. Forest Service bridges enable us to retain dry feet and quickly cross the waterways at various points. As the day grows warmer a crush of hikers and wanderers fill the trail while we head for our car and depart from one of this National Forest's most beautiful and accessible spots. Pack water, a snack and your camera for a memorable trip soon!

Sandy River 

Boulder-strewn canyon

Crossing the Sandy River

Wild Penstemmon

Cattle and horse barrier on the trail

Bunchberry

Vine maple frames a tiny waterfall

Snow "ball" in the forest

Today's eight

Ramona Falls detail

Ocean spray

Forest Service foot bridge

Round moss-covered boulder 

Layers of green

Mossy hillside

Mt. Hood standing guard over its forest









Saturday, May 31, 2014

Just A Walk In The Park


Our six mile hike today began at the Oregon Zoo and nearby Oregon Vietnam Veterans Memorial. This area can be conveniently reached by the MAX railway line. Gathering in the morning dampness that followed a night of rain, we solemnly walked the paved spiral pathway of the memorial. Names of deceased veterans are carved in silent black granite walls along the route, giving quiet homage to the men and women who have given their lives for their country. It is a sobering reminder of the human cost of war. An allee of Hawthorne trees line the entry to the memorial where a granite pool gives pause for reflection. A red rose left at the base of one wall suggested a lost love; a note tucked in an envelope perhaps left thoughts too painful to declare out loud.
Rising to the trailhead, we entered Portland's premier 5,000 acre municipal Forest Park, situated along seven miles of the western hills of the city and offering over 70 miles of trails and fire lanes to hikers, joggers, mountain bikers, birders and general nature enthusiasts. Over 100 species of birds can be located within the park as well as a menagerie of creatures large and small. 40 miles of the trails encircle the city and have entries at all compass points. See these articles for more details.

This area of the park is part of the city's lavish arboretum, a vast collection of specimen trees and shrubs, often labeled with botanical and common names. Some of the trees are original old growth, while many others are second growth and aging nicely in place. The Wildwood Trail, highly popular with joggers and dog walkers, winds through the forest in switchbacks, over foot bridges, up and down the terrain and intersects with a number of other named trails. It extends 27 miles through the park. Years of leaf and needle drop coat the trail, making it soft under foot and quiet so that it masks the rhythmic tread of runners overtaking hikers. Passing on the left!

Elevation gains and losses are frequent on this trail, providing a nice workout for slow and quick travelers alike. Because this is a forest preserve, it mimics the forests of the Mt. Hood and Gifford Pinchot National Forests in its density, variety and layering yet remains within the boundaries of city. Ferns and wildflowers weave through the undergrowth, more sparse in the drier areas and plentiful near moist patches where tiny water flows follow the geography down to join major river tributaries. Various bird calls filter through the treetops, providing a kind of background music. Beads of leftover rain stud the leaves and fronds of low lying fauna. Curious examples of tree roots and ancient-armed evergreens mingle with flowering shrubs as they all reach high for their share of sunlight.

Carefully crossing busy Burnside Street we entered the final steep climb to our destination for the day: the Pittock Mansion, home of city mogul and Oregon pioneer Henry Pittock and his wife Georgiana. Open to the public, this museum-like mansion sits overlooking Portland's downtown area. It has large landscaped grounds surrounding the main house, a gate house and a gardener's house turned gift shop. The house is decorated inside for various holidays and can be reserved for social events in the basement. As a wedding photo venue, it offers spectacular backdrop views of the city and mountains beyond, especially on a clear day.

A picnic at the Pittock was our contribution to the social scene at the mansion on this day. Each hiker toted goodies along to share with the group, making lunch a banquet of taste treats such as homemade hummus and garden-fresh salsa, rhubarb chutney with cream cheese and apricots atop crackers, white stilton cheese with mango and ginger, almond roca and chocolate hazelnut tarts. A thoughtful addition of fancy paper plates punctuated the sophistication of the event. Other visitors to the mansion lounged on benches or sat on the lawn to take in the vistas, perhaps wishing they could join our happy foodie group.

The return trip to various vehicles took a shorter route and passed by an oddly exposed tree root, a yellow flowering tree and more citizenry enjoying their park. Because this park belongs to all Portland and vicinity residents, plan a day to explore (with a map please!) and enjoy this crown jewel of the Northwest. You'll be amazed at what you discover.

Winding through the forest

Pittock Mansion

Enjoying the city view

Looking forward to Glacier

Pittock landscape

"Octopus" tree of sorts

Ghost roots

Happy  hikers

Specimen tree


Final four photos courtesy of J. McCoy