Journalist By Nature: Cape Falcon Delivers

View from Arch Cape

I took my own advice. With the October summer extending yet another day a fellow hiker and I made for the beach once again. Little wind, 75 degrees and a far-reaching sapphire sky beckoned us to Cape Falcon and a section of the Oregon Coast Trail. The Cape Falcon hike starts at Oswald West State Park where the surfing attraction of Short Sands Beach draws a crowd of young surfers and surferettes working their boards on two to three foot waves. The snaking coastline provides a cove here that once saw pirate-like business transactions and became known at Smuggler's Cove. Nowadays it's just Short Sands or Shorty to the locals. The hike heads north along the craggy edge, winding inland at times through remnants of an ancient forest much like that of Cascade Head or Tillamook Head. Glimpses of the cove and then further south to Manzanita and the beige beaches beyond peek through the stands of Sitka spruce, Douglas fir and hemlock.

The trail bed is frequently studded with tree roots that require careful footing to avoid tripping. Rising nearly 200 feet above the ocean the trail takes dips and rises in turn with enough stopping points to encourage a full embrace of the historical significance here. Lewis and Clark toured these woods where the ancient trees you see today were already standing tall 209 years ago! Once again there is a sense of awe at the majestic size of these silent giants.

Salal jungle

Salal, a native berry-bearing beach shrub, begins to take hold more and more as you move farther down the trail until it becomes a towering impenetrable hedge . It must be sheared back to keep the trail open. At one point it covers a hillside at the cliff's edge and narrow pathways have been hacked into it to allow passage to a viewpoint over the north end of the cove. If you are hiking at the right time of year the salal berries can be picked and made into jam or jelly. Here's an exotic recipe for the adventurous.

Trail view near turnaround point

By taking a map along you will be able to understand where you are on the trail and what you're looking at in the distance. Just to the north of Cape Falcon is another cove where sea lions hang out, competing with diving birds for fish. Because of height above the cove, you can see the full body of the animal even when it's underwater. Binoculars would be a great item to pack on this hike. There is a small space beside the trail here marked by a wire line and fence posts where you can carefully sit and enjoy lunch and the view not only out to sea but straight down to wave-crashed rocks. The trail turns inland at this point as it heads for Arch Cape another six miles north. Turn around here unless you intend to make the entire hike and have a relay car awaiting your arrival.

Short Sands Beach a.k.a. Smuggler's Cove

Returning through the sunlit forest we made our way to Short Sands Beach to rest on a bench overlooking the shimmering water and surfers floating in wait for a wave. The sun was sizzling in a brilliant finale of extended summer, the air unusually warm and still. As surfers began to pack it in for the day we decided to grab some dinner in Cannon Beach and head for Ecola State Park for another hike along the coast. With full bellies and after some exploratory driving we arrived at the park anticipating a view of the sunset and hoping to grab a few more miles for the day but time had slipped away and an unwelcome but common cloud bank drew closer to the shore to obscure the fading sun. Scouting for the best view we shouldered among other visitors wanting to capture a beach sunset shot. Unfortunately at the critical moments of spectacular color the fog turned thick and dark, making
for a grey close to the day.

View from Ecola

As was evidenced by the number of families and couples on this five mile round trip hike, it is a premier coastal trek worthy of your attention. It is best taken on a clear day for the extensive vistas but would be interesting any time of year. Just dress for the weather. With the advent of Fall, it's a great time to consider a drive up the Gorge to apple country in Hood River and the colorful hikes along the way. The season will fade to wet, silhouetted greys soon enough so don't delay your outdoor adventures.