Journalist By Nature: Falls Creek Falls

The Columbia River bisects the topography of the western reaches of the Pacific Northwest, delineating Oregon from Washington. The Gifford Pinchot National Forest, home to Mt. Adams and Mt. St. Helens territories on the Washington side, encompasses over 1.3 million acres. It offers many spectacular hikes. A favorite within an hour of Portland is the Falls Creek Falls hike. It is a fairly easy hike with a more challenging scramble option just north of the falls. The drive to the trailhead is rewarded at the end of the hike, so plan on enjoying the trip east on Washington's Highway 14 to Carson and Forest Road 3062.

Weather-wise, this July 3 trip was suitably comfortable in the low 70's after a spate of hot days. A group of nine set out at the trailhead chatting up a storm by way of updating each other on various travels and projects. The only other trail companions were just completing their hike as we entered the forest so we had the trees, trail and creatures to ourselves. This hike begins with an easy elevation gain on a wide, well-packed dirt path, following the Falls Creek in its quiet section. Here the creek runs wide and slow over rocks and logs, patterns of sunlight playing through the trees over the water's surface in the early morning. The fresh smell of a slightly damp forest is so refreshing, the cool air flushing away urban stresses.

A 30-foot suspension bridge takes you across the creek and further on the winding, undulating trail that traverses tree roots, rocks, downed tree trunks and large boulders. Due to the high volume of hikers, this tail is well maintained although worn into the rocky bed in places. The forest understory is carpeted in tones of green by Oregon grape, salal, ferns, vine maple, oxalis and various mosses. A large airspace exists between the lower plants and the upper story of hemlock and Douglas fir, whose branches begin high above our reach. Remnants of the ancient forest are seen in decaying stumps and downed trees whose end came in bygone storms or landslides and early lumber harvesting. Logs lie where they tumbled, resembling the children's game of "pick up sticks".

The trail climbs above the creek level, the soothing sound of bubbling waters our perpetual companion. The elevation gain of 650 feet in approximately 2 miles makes for a bit of huffing and puffing if you are not used to this work but it is not difficult to keep a steady pace. Mountain bikers hauling their wheels up the trail say it is a fun ride down. We'll take their word for it! Crossing a dry creek ravine, the moss-covered boulders appear as a river of moss with the image completed by accompanying sounds of falling water from the nearby but invisible Falls Creek. Massive basalt walls, a typical rock structure in the area, appear near the falls. Mosses and ferns cling tenaciously to the damp surfaces, softening the sharp angles of rock and giving it an ancient appearance.

A teasing peek of the falls appears through a screen of cedar and hemlock branches, announcing the nearness of our reward. The bubbling water sounds gradually become a crashing, pounding roar as we make the final approach to the falls. Huge boulders lie scattered about as if left by giants in the middle of a game of marbles. Hugging the basalt wall we emerge at a view point level with the lower tier of the two-section falls. The immediate impression is of a combination of Ramona Falls and the Punch Bowl. Mist rises all around the noisy waterfall, continually soaking the surrounding mosses, ferns and stalwart trees that cling to tiny cracks and crags.

Soaking in our reward, we pause for lunch, conversation and meditation. As with all water features, Falls Creek Falls draws you into a mesmerized state of just being in the moment. The sunlight changes every few minutes so that the reflections and patterns on the water are a constant attraction. The pounding waters drown out all other sounds. As other hikers begin to populate the viewing area, the mood is broken and we pack up for our return leg. The trip can be extended in length and elevation gain by taking an unmarked and barely worn scramble above the trail to the Upper Trail and a mile trek to the top of the falls. Unfortunately, once there you cannot see the falls. This option adds 500 feet and a couple of extra miles. Be sure to consult a good map before leaving the main trail. You don't want to make the six o'clock news.

Salal berries forming to an eventual blue

Returning through the picturesque woods, we see salal and huckleberries blossoming and berrying out, to coin a term. Salal berries are edible and some people make a jelly from them. Bears are the competitors for huckleberries, so when you go to pick them, keep an eye out for the big furry guys. All sorts of hikers seem to prefer the afternoon time slot to make this trek with their kids and dogs and so if you wish for a sense of private forest, start your trip in the early morning hours. Whenever and wherever you travel in the state and national forests, there is a great experience of refreshment and restoration awaiting you. Don't miss a moment of our national treasures.