Journalist By Nature: Two For One

First view to the south

A brief second chance at summer in early October provided the perfect opportunity to try a new hike on the northern Oregon coast. Cascade Head, just north of Lincoln City, is a jut of soil-covered lava that pads the coastline and sports a hefty stand of Sitka spruce, some over 350 years old according to Sullivan. It contains two separate but shared access hikes that each give spectacular views of ocean beaches from a perch 1200' above the water. This is a set of hikes for a perfectly clear day as any cloud cover or damp weather pattern would make them less than satisfying as to views.

Elusive Oregon Silverspot

Driving to the upper trailhead I encountered Ranger J.W. Cleveland busily organizing a planting project for the meadow nearby. This may sound uninteresting but for the fact that Cascade Head is one of the few coastal areas where a rare and vanishing breed of butterfly lives. The Oregon Silverspot butterfly depends upon very specific siting and vegetation to breed and successfully survive. Cascade Head is part of a Nature Conservancy parcel that was rescued from a developer who wanted to build homes on this million dollar view hillside. That project would have limited the enjoyment of the panorama to a very few homeowners. Now it can be used and enjoyed by anyone making the trip and hike.

Bushwacking planting circles

Heading down the trail to the meadow I began to hear sounds of heavy machinery and assumed it was on private land adjacent to the Conservancy. Then I noticed continuous track impressions in the moist earth and very obvious trail shaving debris. Soon Ranger Cleveland came roaring by on his ATV loaded with stacks of nursery cells of plant starts. Over 28,000 of them! Breaking into the meadow of Cascade Head I saw a yellow steam shovel in a downhill area bushwacking circles of open spaces on the north-facing areas. Now it all came together! The trail had been cleared to allow access by big machinery and the bushwacked circles would be the planting areas.

Viola adunca

The species to be plugged in was the early blue violet, a specific food source for the caterpillar from which the butterfly metamorphs. This is different from the woodland violet seen throughout forests in Oregon. Volunteers gathered to place these tiny young plant starts into the cleared earth and a Conservancy biologist was on hand to oversee the planting and educate interested parties on the particulars of the local butterfly. There were multiple attempts to recruit me for the project but I gracefully declined as my agenda and clothing for the day didn't allow for crawling around in the dirt. The dedication demonstrated by these people was truly commendable as they labored to do their part in bringing a healthy butterfly population back to Cascade Head.

Southern beaches

Moving west over the hilltop I paused to take in the 42-mile view to the horizon (you can see farther as you rise in elevation so 1200' allows that expansive view), the stretch of beaches along Lincoln City, Siletz Bay, Gleneden Beach and the estuary at the mouth of the Salmon River. Traveling over the hill along the trough-like trail that goes all the way down to the estuary, I found a seat in the grass and just breathed in the vastness of the scene. The absolute coastal stillness was a balm to the senses. Warm breezes softly ruffled the dried plants on the slope, crows flying overhead into the stand of spruce made a shhh-shhh-shhh sound with their wings while the hawks glided silently on the updrafts. Morning sunlight sparkled on the estuary and breakers gleamed white and frothy far below. The rocky coastline with its sea stacks and giant boulders makes you contemplate the geologic disruption that formed this area. Then again you wonder what Lewis and Clark felt upon seeing this grand display for the first time.

A fluttering movement caught my eye and upon turning in curiosity I realized it was an Oregon Silverspot butterfly, one of the last of the season. Hurriedly grabbing my camera I quietly and slowly stalked this rarity, seeking a brief chance to capture a picture. Alas, my every movement served to startle it into flight and while at rest it continuously fanned its wings so that my efforts to focus were greatly hindered. Here is a proper series of photographs. Farther up the hill I witnessed the fast-paced aerial duet of two more golden butterflies. It was a privilege to have spotted these specimens on this arbitrary occasion and perhaps the massive planting of early blue violets will eventually restore the insect's population here.

Starting downhill

Returning to the trailhead I bid adieu to the ranger and headed a mile down the road to the lower trailhead for a second hike at the Harts Cove north of Cascade Head. Meeting sweaty returning hikers with tales of "yes, it's steep!" I considered my objective in being here. Having declined an opportunity to make a hike with my usual Thursday group that was rated as difficult, I was curious about the grade of this trail. I didn't want to get stranded on a slope that would prove my undoing, but my curiosity was strong enough that I ventured down a step at a time to see what I could do. Through a series of six or seven switchbacks and with trekking poles easing the decent I slowly made my way to the basin of Cliff Creek. Having a "little engine that could" attitude, plus a touch of stubbornness, I continued along the trail, crossing Cliff Creek on a foot bridge and climbing up a hillside once again.

Giant Sitka spruce

Shafts of noontime sunlight splayed through the trees surrounding this forest trail. The chit-chit-chit of invisible birds sounded overhead. An open understory here is the result of a very high treetop cover. Oxalis, wood violets, salal, ferns and moss layered themselves over fallen tree trunks. Some trees lay over the trail requiring a hurdle stance in order to move forward. I began to notice something familiar about this part of the forest. Not in its location but in its content. Giant Sitka spruce trees stood silently amid the younger sprouts of Douglas fir and spruce. The sense was akin to that which I felt in the Redwoods. These colossal specimens are reported to be over 350 years old. They stand hundreds of feet tall and present a towering sense of awe in their height and girth. Their silence comes, perhaps, because their limbs are so high that the wind sounds don't reach the forest floor. I gazed vertically to the point of tipping backwards in order to see the lowest limbs on these granddaddies.

The bench

Slowly walking onwards in reverent admiration I searched vainly for ocean views that I knew were there but were obscured by the trees. Tiny glimpses could be seen but not enough to satisfactorily photograph. After an hour of hiking I reached a view bench occupied by two other hikers enjoying their lunch. They reported that the reward was at the end of this hike, another 40 minutes along the undulating terrain. There you could view the northern coastline just as the first hike caught the southern seascape. However, having dawdled excessively on the restful hilltop earlier, I realized I didn't have another hour and a half to make the final piece of this hike and get back to my car in time to return home. The reward will have to be awarded at another time.

Hurdles

Returning through the forest I knew what lay ahead. Crossing Cliff Creek again I began the huffing and puffing labor of the steep switchbacks, pausing on the short level parts to catch my breath, rest my joints and sip water. Descending younger hikers inquired about my poles, declaring that they could see the virtue of them on such a trail. They wouldn't know the truth of that until their ascent. Taking my time, lots of time, and keeping a steady although small step cadence, I reached the trailhead after an hour, wet with perspiration, panting from effort but thankful for the workout as well as the experience.

These two hikes are some of the Oregon coast's finest and should be included in your list of "want to's". There are sunny days forecast for another week, occasional bright winter days and the greatly anticipated ten day February "window" of spring-teaser weather that could provide ideal times to visit Cascade Head and Harts Cove. Make a plan and set aside some time to visit one of the marvels of the Pacific Northwest. You'll be glad you did!