Journalist By Nature: Dutch Colonials, Duty Calls and Double Entendres

Keeping with our penchant for dry Thursdays we gathered at N.E. Senate and 42nd for the day's walking adventure. Unencumbered by umbrellas we pursued the urban cement trail once again, choosing to explore the Laurelhurst District, bounded by I-84 and S.E. Belmont just west of Providence Portland hospital complex. Utilizing Laura Foster's Portland City Walks we set off in tandem with several other folks clutching Foster's book to investigate one of the older and more upscale neighborhoods of the city. Developed in the early 1900's by W.S. Ladd, namesake of Ladd's Addition, Laurelhurst was named by Paul Murphy after a similar project carrying the same name in Seattle. Murphy was the sales agent for both housing districts.

English cottage style

By 1893 the original Morrison Bridge had opened the east side tracts of land for residential platting. Laurelhurst was designed by the famed New York landscape architecture firm Olmsted Brothers as a high-class residential district with specific limitations on occupants and structures and a philosophy of respect for the underlying land. Foster details these elements through her fine research and narrative. Consider this city walk an architectural tour of period styles and adaptations: Craftsman and California Bungalows, Dutch Colonial, English Cottage, "Airplane" Bungalow, Colonial Revival, Tudor half-timber, Northwest Regional, Arts and Crafts, and Queen Anne. Most of these styles are hefty, multi-storied dwellings with recessed, under-house or alley garages and minimal yard space.

Elderly tree dwarfs house

The landscaping of this district has matured into giant, overbearing arborescence that towers over homes, blurring property lines and often concealing many of the delightful details of the homes. Leaves abound and are raked into piles in the streets for city pickup on designated days. Some of the century American ash and elms are protected as heritage trees despite their street-arching branches, obvious age-related disease and roof-crunching potential. The variety of trees includes maples, Douglas firs, lindens, giant sequoias, London planes, tulip trees, poplars, beeches, elms, firs and a surprising number of ginkgoes. These "living fossils" with unique fan-shaped leaves turn a beautiful golden color in the fall and the occasional female of the species bears fruit which

Gingko with stinky fruit

smells quite noxious when it ripens.

Laurelhurst Park, situated in the middle of the district, is a 31 acre tract of land designed for a variety of uses and includes basketball courts, a wading pool, playground, tennis courts, restrooms, a dance studio and paved paths as well as large grassy spaces. I enjoyed occasional outings here as a child while visiting relatives in the neighborhood. The undulating landscape housed a one-time natural concert arena but poor drainage eventually caused its demise for that purpose. A lovely pond on the eastern border of the park is surrounded by flowering shrubs, overhanging tree branches and populated with water fowl skimming over the water's surface.

Bungalow with curtained porch

Strolling down the streets and avenues of Laurelhurst we marveled at the many well-maintained homes, each with unique details and styling. A few are falling into disrepair, but keeping a 100-year old house in proper working order must take constant vigilance and plenty of money. The Queen Annes and English cottage homes are often updated with a new palate of colors, some showcasing understated elegance while others are just plain garish. Serious pruning and perimeter maintenance help many of the homes retain their original presentation. Foster's running commentary on significant homes along the walk provides a peek into their past and heightens appreciation for their designs.

Hose cart

A surprising treat at 35th and Belmont was the Historic Belmont Firehouse and Safety Learning Center. This is a museum of firefighting history and a memorial to firefighter lives lost on 9/11. Entering on the heels of a previous tour group we were welcomed in by the buff lieutenant on duty and told to have a look around. This brick building housed an early fire station at first manned by men alone who pulled fire trucks to the calls. Later horses were trained to be at the ready when a bell sounded. They would step to a harnessing spot where rigged tack would quickly load onto the horses from hooks on the high ceiling and the whole rig would deploy out the door in 15 seconds! (old video here) We jumped into a fire truck mock-up to ride along on a call, sirens blaring, dispatcher calling out instructions. It was quite realistic including the feel of a rumbling engine and slight vertigo sensation. Put this spot on your list of interesting places to see in Portland.

Chalkboard menu at Dick's Kitchen

Arriving at S.E. Belmont, we began searching for a new eatery in which to quell the pangs of hunger rumbling in our bellies. Perusing the window-mounted menus along the way we settled on a small diner called Dick's Kitchen. The offer of wild boar burgers as the special of the week set the hook for our adventurous group. Owner Richard Satnick, originator of Laughing Planet restaurants, continued his quest to serve healthy food to locals and opened Dick's Kitchen. He offers basic, clean (as in unadulterated with chemicals, drugs or anything artificial) food with paleo items, gluten-free baked goods and carno items rotating on a meat menu of elk, venison, wild boar, lamb, bison and dork (duck and pork combo). Yam or potato (not fried) fries and other elemental sides accompany orders that wisk out of the open kitchen with efficiency. Friendly hip waiters gladly talk up Dick and his wall of Dick-named famous mugs: Dick Powell, Richard Nixon, Ricardo Montalbán, Dick Clark, Richard Gere, Richard Burton and Richard Harris. The waiters gladly provide double entendres to the guests.

H. Green mansion under restoration

Fueled for the finale of our tour we took off on S.E. 30th to complete the 5.2 mile circumference of the district. At Ankeny we viewed two enormous mansions. The 1928 Mediterranean Harry Green house, built for $410,000, was purchased 30 years later by the grocery boy who first delivered to this new house. Robert Bitar realized his lifelong dream of owning the estate and lived in the house for the next 50 years. The brick-faced H. Russell Albee mansion of A.E. Doyle design next door to the Green house is equally dramatic and pretentious. Being the mayor of Portland had its rewards, both to the mayor and to the architect. Enjoy the pomposity of this spectacular and educational district made richer by Laura Foster's book. It's a worthwhile addition to any Oregonian's library and the walk is its own reward.