Journalist By Nature: Risers, Radon and Ramona

Exploring the diversity of Portland's numerous neighborhoods affords our hikers an energizing outing to stay in shape for the coming mountain trail season, a broadening knowledge of our city's origin and development, and common experiences that bond our group. Today's five miler included 1,436 stair steps, ascending and descending between the levels of the Alameda Ridge in N.E. Portland, 62 city blocks and numerous chats with local residents about why they love their district. Sunny blue skies blessed our tour as we kept a sharp eye out for ivy-shrouded stairways tucked discreetly between gorgeous terraced yards. The staircases range from 50 to 127 steps each and connect homes on Alameda with those on Wisteria and Ridgewood streets.

The advent of streetcars opened up this area for greater development and the stairs provided quick and quiet access between neighbors. Beverly Cleary, famed author of the Ramona series, centered her darling character's antics around Klickitat Street. Thomas Autzen, president of the Portland Manufacturing Company and namesake of Autzen Stadium at University of Oregon, built a mansion in Alameda. Jacques Gershkovitch, founder of the Portland Junior Symphony and its conductor from 1924 to 1954, owned a magnificent Mediterranean-style house in the neighborhood. The original developers consulted with the Olmstead Brothers landscape designers as they planned parks and street layouts.

The radon issue is well known in this district. It is a radioactive, colorless, odorless, tasteless gas generated by the decay of radium in granite, as well as other substances. The granite of the Alameda area was laid down during parts of the Missoula Floods. Test kits are available to homeowners who wish to ensure residents' health.

Starting at the Sabin Hydro Park, we walked in the shadows of two giant green water reservoirs, cut through a playground area and glanced at the local community garden area, currently in its winter repose. Views to the east peek between houses and from the top level of the stairways, challenging us to identify the tall boxy buildings of downtown Portland and Pill Hill. It is obvious why homes were built on this ridge where the views can be outstanding but at the price of a steeply sloping back yard often devoid of accessibility. Without exception these homes are immaculately maintained in picture-perfect condition, lawns edged, flower beds completely leaf-free, windows sparkling in the winter sunlight. Ascending one stairway we spied a grand piano through one window, a breakfast nook through another. It is an exercise in self-restraint to not peek into the homes that are situated three feet from the cement risers bisecting each block.

Several of the houses on Alameda are on the National Historic Register. The average price of homes here is close to $600,000 with million dollar estates sprinkled in between. Property taxes run about $1000 or more per month. This is not a place for the thin-of-wallet, to be sure. The streets are wide although garages can be narrow. Smart cars are about the size to drive right into a garage. Because of the steep pitch of the land some homes have garages on a lower level and a walkway up to the house above. We wondered how quickly the weekly grocery haul would grow tiring in those circumstances.

Bergenia

Rock walls line many properties, lovely lavender Bergenia blossoms dotting the black and grey stones with spring color. Built to last, these walls remain steady and bulge-free after 75 years of holding back the ground. Exquisite Japanese maples stretch over some walls, showcasing their twisting branch structure prior to leaf breakout. Century trees with enormous girth quietly shade many of the parking strips and tall firs stand double the height of their deciduous garden companions. Spring bulbs of anemones and crocus are beginning to add color to otherwise dull brown garden spaces. The red berries on pyracantha, pink sprays of daphne and brilliant bursts of yellow forsythia herald the approaching season of renewal.

Stopping people out working or walking their dogs we asked what they like about this district. Without exception they all mentioned the stairs, the friendliness of the locals and the interesting varieties of architecture. Grand estates line the upper reaches of Alameda Street, providing a rich skyline view from below. English Cottage, Tudor, Bungalow, Dutch Colonial, Arts and Crafts, Mediterranean and Colonial Revival name some of the styles you will see here. The lower level of the ridge contains more modest homes of the working class in smaller Bungalow styles while some newer infill mimics the older architecture with an occasional modern style sneaking in. There are a number of remodeling projects in process and a large selection of For Sale signs fishing for customers along the parking strips.

One interesting point about this tour is the opportunity to see into the past as to how people chose to structure their housing spaces. Many of these neighborhoods had restrictions as to the minimum cost of a house and what types of people could not live there. In one section stables were prohibited and specific races of people were excluded. Snobbery was openly evident at the start. Now the only restriction is money, lots of money.

In order to quell our midday hunger we took the German alternative and dined at Gustav's Bier Haus adjacent to the well-known Rheinlander restaurant. Hearty food and beverages soon covered our table for eleven as we discussed our latest favorite reads. With a number of book club members there's always a list of intriguing titles to share. Once famished turned to full, we headed back along Alameda, minus the stairs, to more carefully inspect the homes we had missed on the stair climbs. Interesting details are visible when on foot that would be entirely missed on a drive by. With another Thursday Dryday behind us we are looking forward to next week's adventure in the delightful and captivating neighborhoods of Portland.