Journalist By Nature: Toothrock Trail

Fritillaria affins a.k.a. chocolate lily

Fueled by an early and mild spring we eagerly pushed eastward in the Columbia River Gorge to Toothrock Trailhead for our weekly hike. Scaling the basalt hillside paralleling Interstate 84 above Bonneville Dam, this 5 mile loop trail intersects with history as well as geography. Part of the trail is on the 1916 Historic Columbia River Highway. Another portion touches the 1856 wagon road that carried goods around the dangerous cascades of the pre-dammed river by surmounting Toothrock. Quite a feat when you consider the only power equipment was of the human and animal variety. Our goal was 1000 feet above us at Wauna Viewpoint, a cement pyramid marking a geodetic survey landmark.

Following the directions of Scott Cook's Curious Gorge hiking book we actually counted our footsteps, 242, to the path veering into the woods. Here we encountered a cool, moist forest brimming with tiny wildflowers and leaf buds. Ancient Douglas firs, seven feet in diameter, stood stoically amid younger versions of themselves, watching over the fallen ones lying prone at crooked angles, having been taken down by landslides and high winds. Vine maples were just beginning to display delicate leaves and alder stretched umbrella-like branches with golden-green new leaves overhead.

The soft trail bed was edged in the lime green of fluffy new dicentra/bleeding heart foliage, flower stalks just beginning to form. Yellow dog violets intermingled, giving a landing lights appearance to the path. Everywhere we looked wildflowers were dancing in the breeze like children jumping around for adult attention. Sweet pea tendrils arched delicately around forming pink buds, cow parsley on thick stems reached for greater height while tiarella blanketed the forest floor with its hand-shaped leaves and tall, white flower heads. Tiny purple shooting stars nodded modestly next to the white double heads of twinflower.

Poison oak, lying in wait to share its itchy oil with passersby, was innocently green except for a few advanced leaves that had turned red and shiny. Oregon grape, with holly-like leaves, was sporting bunches of bright yellow flowers and occasional wine-colored leaves. Maidenhair ferns, clinging to the sopping wet rocks, were waving like Egyptian fans over royalty. Sword ferns filled in the gaps and pink currant blooms screamed "look at me!". Salmon, thimble and black berries were hurrying to acquire the proper stage of maturity to flower and produce their crops.

Climbing the moderate switchbacks we took a turn to trail #400 and were near our destination when we were confronted by a roadblock of tumbled rock and dirt. A landslide had blocked our path. A narrow, tamped pathway appeared to have been used by previous hikers and even though the slope was steep, we opted to take it to see if we could circumvent this problem. Carefully picking our way upward, rocks shifting under foot, we prevailed to find a higher path clear to use. Following this we wound around the cliff face and finally saw our goal high atop a rock outcropping. However, yet another landslide stood between us and the top. Again we carefully stepped over large gravel and mud sections, leaning into the hill at times for balance. Finally at Wauna viewpoint we were treated to a fresh display of Fritillaria affins, or chocolate lilies blooming under a power fixture.

Looking outward we gazed at a view similar to that from Angel's Rest where you can look up and down the mighty Columbia River from Portland to Cascade Locks and beyond. The puffy rain clouds parted to reveal a blue sky and Hamilton Mountain across the water. Unpacking our lunches we sat at this fabulous lookout, just taking in the magnificent Gorge views. Eventually we caught sight of dark, roiling storm clouds hustling upriver towards us. Not wishing to get a soaking we carefully left our perch, treading over the landslides, to reach the lower trail that led to Eagle Creek Fish Hatchery. A bridge across Eagle Creek swayed rhythmically as we marched across its span. Heading back along the old highway, now for foot and bike traffic only, we watched LifeFlight helicopters high overhead making runs back to base at Dallasport and birds riding the thermals up the face of the southern cliffs. Satisfied with our hiking progress we plan to tackle Lyle Orchard next week as we continue to search out wildflower displays and enjoy new sights in our fabulous Pacific Northwest territory.