Journalist By Nature: Tom McCall Preserve: Primary Colors

The early and decidedly invigorating spring weather spurs us to take as many wildflower hikes as we can before the season fades to brown seed heads and dried foliage. The eastern side of the Cascades is brimming with a multitude of captivating wildflowers, many not seen this early in the western Gorge area. The Tom McCall Preserve, site of two different hikes totaling five and a half miles, belongs to the Nature Conservancy of Oregon and offers a palate of primary colors in the wildflower display washing across the spring green basalt layers of the middle Gorge. There are no restroom facilities or trash receptacles so plan accordingly if you make this trip. The closest town is tiny Mosier with few offerings. Additionally, dogs are not allowed on Nature Conservancy sites.

Taking exit 69 from Interstate 5 we headed up to the old Columbia River Highway, an original and winding two-lane road running from Troutdale to The Dalles on the Oregon side. Up and away from the speeding interstate traffic we slowed to take in the expansive views of the river and the Washington side of the Gorge. Rugged bluffs of basalt have sculpted this land, begging questions about its ancient formation by repeated lava flows and receding glaciers. Oregon white oak, Ponderosa pine and cottonwoods clustered in random groves as we rose to the plateau rim and followed the edge of Rowena Dell to the Preserve. White puffy wisps of cottonwood blooms drifted through the air like unseasonal snow and the diminutive tree sizes gave evidence of the constant wind currents that buffet this area.

Mt.Hood behind balsamroot

Arriving at the Rowena Crest viewpoint we drank in the panoramic view of snow-capped mountains, a wide blue river, rocky green hills and a never-ending cloudless blue sky. Fresh warm air filled our lungs as we hefted our backpacks and followed the signage to the trailhead of Tom McCall Point. Wading through grassy fields we followed the dusty tan trail leading to the 1722 foot elevation of the point. Bunches of mustard-yellow balsamroot festooned the fields, mixing with purple lupine, blue Bachelor buttons and gentian and red Indian paintbrush. White desert parsley in its starburst pattern, golden arnica, widow grass, trateleia and the blooming stage of poison oak added more variety to the floral scene.

The easy tread of the lower trail gave way to a long series of steep switchbacks that angled through short stands of oak and thick underbrush spattered at times with poison oak. Openings in the trees framed long-range views of the river and the steppes of the Washington cliffs. All thoughts of a simple hike were abandoned as we huffed and puffed our way higher and higher, a little voice in the group calling out from time to time "are we there yet?" Thankfully the soil was moist enough to provide traction on the steep trail but not slippery-muddy, nor was it so dry that the fine, flour-like soil acted as ballbearings to cause slipping. Rocky in places from heavy foot traffic the trail was well maintained, and newly constructed wooden steps helped achieve elevation gain at one point.

Summiting from the eastern side we rounded the point and gazed at the familiar white profile of Mt. Hood and across the river the flatter-topped Mt. Adams. A tiny sliver of Mt. St. Helens was visible beyond the Washington hills and the Columbia River appeared to roll from eternity to eternity through the Gorge. We settled down among the wildflowers and spread our lunches while resting and taking in the dazzling grandeur of our surroundings. The scene is fresh no matter how many times we see it or from what angle it is viewed.

Soaking up the descending view we scooted and side-stepped down the serpentine trail, thankfully never seeing any actual serpents on this trek. It is always like a mini-goodbye when we leave a peak, always too soon, the visit too brief. Tug and barge traffic made its way slowly upriver as we gazed at the reverse views and headed for the flatter plateau trail to the north. Picking up speed, we hastened for the pond to check out the lily pads and then kept going in the heat for what would end up as a dead end rim peek. This trail is mostly free of poison oak, but also has fewer wildflowers. It is pegged for children and those less inclined to elevation gains.

Mt.Adams in the distance

Visit the Preserve even if you don't hike much as the stroll and quiet views are reward enough. Pack a picnic and enjoy the spring primary colors of Tom McCall Preserve before the color fades.