Journalist By Nature

Friday, August 8, 2014

A Goldilocks Day

High summer day

The stifling heat of our July was waning. The hike meet-up was earlier than usual. There were just enough seats for all the hikers. The day was beautifully open before us. This promised to be a quintessential summer day! With a destination bearing of NNE we headed up the Columbia River Gorge to cross at the Bridge of the Gods, take a right heading through Stevenson, a left at Carson and searched for FR90 to arrive at Lower Lewis River Falls Campground. This area is midway between Mt. St. Helens and Mt. Adams in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest in Washington. We debated as to the correct pronunciation of the Wind River Road: wind as in breezy or wind as in curving as it was both. Pausing at the McClellen View Point we were prevented by clouds from seeing any view but planned to stop on our way back to see the famed Mt. St. Helens' blow-out side. Although a two hour drive from the Portland area, the trip is well worth the time and effort, and should include a plan to camp for a night or two if you can manage it, or at least a picnic lunch and dinner.

Lower Lewis River Falls

Arriving at our trailhead, we could hear the sound of cascading water and walked a short distance to the viewing platform at the Lower Lewis River Falls. A collective "oh!" leapt from our mouths as we gazed upon the flow of water over a flat bed of basalt, logs lying helter skelter at the edges of the rocks. Unbelievably clear water pooled below the falls revealing levels of river rock and tiers of basalt along the riverbed. We dallied at this first photo opportunity, trying different angles and exposures in an attempt to capture the full beauty of this spot. Our leader promised more delights if we would only start our hike so we reluctantly headed upriver on the main trail out of the campground.

Aging split rail fencing on the trail

The trail is wide, soft with fir needles and wanders through a Douglas fir, cedar, hemlock and speckled alder forest that towers above what appears to be a floating forest floor of ferns. The mosses on the ground are obscured by the heavy next-level growth of sword and horsetail ferns, native Oregon grape, vine maple and young alder, accented by dots of colorful purple penstemon and yellow monkey flowers. Maidenhair ferns cling to the damp and dripping walls of basalt along the trail, marking the boggy sections underfoot. Slanting mid-morning sunlight streaks through the trees to make shadows on the trail and give the water of the river an aqua-green cast as it flows over brownish colored rocks and sheets of basalt. The shallow level of the summer runoff causes the river to bump over its boulder-strewn bottom to create that pleasant babbling river sound of breaking water. The whitecaps in the current break up the otherwise smooth flow of the river as it heads for the Columbia River basin.

Middle Lewis River Falls

A mile or so into the hike brings you to the Middle Lewis River Falls, a less impressive, smaller waterfall that slides over a rounded dam of moss-dotted basalt, slipping into the forest shadows on the far side of the river. There are occasional access points to the river along the trail before it climbs 500 feet to reach the Upper Falls. Portions of the trail are covered in talus, making footing a bit uncertain and corresponding to the dripping basalt walls close at hand. A recent incident of a random falling rock hitting and breaking the arm of a hiker in the Oneonata Gorge serves as a warning about hiking in rocky areas. Be aware of the risks associated with your hikes.

Aged firs, some ten feet in diameter, others mere remnants of a previous life populate the woodlands. A large, downed cedar spewed its branches over the trail and scented the air with its characteristic sweet odor, having been sawn in pieces to allow continued access to the trail at one point. It was reminiscent of newly sharpened pencils on the first day of school and crackling kindling feeding a campfire at dusk. Stopping for lunch just below the Upper Falls we found tree rounds and mossy logs for seating and a view of the falls with its splashing water a pleasant companion for conversation and meditation. Crossing a wooden bridge we scrambled up a little hill to absorb the Upper Falls' glory. A wide ledge of basalt and an irregular surface guide the river into differing patterns of cascading water. On the right side the water falls in straight narrow sections. The left side is more dramatic with a gushing current tumbling around a bend and falling into a foaming pool at the base of the wall. Again, it was a captivating sight that kept photographers busy snapping various shots. As with many sunlit waterfalls, the colors and water shapes change with the angle of the sunlight, making the scene seductive and siren-like.

Upper Lewis River Falls

At this 3.5 mile point some of our group chose to go further up the trail to discover more waterfalls. From this switchback turn, the trail gets steeper and more rocky. Some hikers chose to return to the campground, others waited for the venturing few. It was a delightful resting place as kids and moms joined us and then climbed down to the water to play for a time. As we all finally began the return portion of our hike, we noticed the lengthening shadows, the changing colors and the heavier air quality of mid-afternoon. Once back at the campground we pulled off hot and dirty hiking shoes, slipped on air-allowing sandals and piled into our trucks for a pleasant drive back to Stevenson. There we located the Big River Grill, famed for its quality food in a tiny town, and relaxed over spinach and portabello mushroom ravioli with tomato pesto sauce, reuben sandwiches and Tillamook cheese, bacon and pepper burgers with a side of sweet potato fries. A birthday girl was awarded marionberry pie ala mode, which she graciously shared around the table of eleven. Although the day grew long, the comfortable friendships made the time fly by as we determined to return to the Lewis River area for more exploration. It was indeed a Goldilocks just right kind of day.

Rainbow at Lower Falls

Lower Falls view

Aging trail fencing

Ancient tree remains amid newer growth

River cairn

Wooden bridge over a creek

Destroyed bridge support

Elated eleven. Thanks Jean!

Basalt wall

Treetops and rock wall touch above

Ten foot girth, the tree that is!

Steel, our trail pup

A quiet section of river

Tiny purple penstemen

Right side Upper Falls

The whole Upper Falls

Upper Falls, another view

Nearly missed this old sign

Pool below Upper Falls

Clear, green-colored water

Talus and maidenhair ferns

Calm river section

Steel spikes from rotted logs lining trail

Whitecaps on the river

Sheets of basalt channel the river

Alder stand

McClellen View Point

Mt. St. Helens' north face

Paddlewheeler on Columbia River

Friday, August 1, 2014

Mountain High Lakes: Little Crater and Timothy

Timothy Lake

Given the mountainous topography of Mt. Hood National Forest and the propensity of water to run downhill, it is not surprising to learn there are over 150 lakes within its 1 million acres. As the linked chart shows, most of these lakes are at elevations between 3500 and 5000 feet. Hikers will be happy to know there are 900 miles of trails in this expanse of forest, some which can provide lake access. The Pacific Crest Trail, running through the western United States between the Mexican and Canadian borders, often intersects or joins some of the local trails. This was the case on our hike from Little Crater Lake to and around Timothy Lake Reservoir.

Driving 46 miles east of Sandy to the south side of Mt. Hood, we arrived at the Little Crater Lake campground. It is sited near a boggy meadow at 3300 feet elevation where mosquitoes await your arrival for their next snack. Bug spray will keep them from an all-out attack, but they will continue to circle your body searching for any unprotected skin access.

Little Crater Lake

Logs clearly seen at 45 feet

A short walk through the meadow brings hikers to the so-called geological oddity of Little Crater Lake. It is in fact just a pond, 100 feet across and about 30-45 feet deep, but its unusual clarity and aquamarine color are definitely reminiscent of the famous cerulean Crater Lake further south. This pond was created when an underground artesian water source pushed upward, dissolving limestone sediment. Logs can clearly be seen on the bottom of the pond. The underground spring maintains the lake at a constant 34 degrees and despite the Forest Service's prohibition against swimming, it lures the occasional brave visitor into its icy depths for a brief but exhilarating watery embrace. It would be unwise to allow children to even wade at the edges as there is an abrupt drop-off straight to the bottom.

Picking up the Timothy Lake trail, we entered a forest of old although not ancient growth fir and hemlock. The understory is fairly clear with stumps marking the remnants of some logging activity. The trail is mostly level, wide, well-packed from heavy use and sprinkled with rounded rocks and tree roots in places. It parallels the 13 miles of shoreline around the lake and intersects on the east side with the PCT where we encountered several youthful hikers making the summer trek along its route. Glimpses of the blue lake are viewed between the trees and there are designated camping spots along the way. A Boy Scout troop was working on their 50 mile hiking badge while one leader guarded the camp. Crayfish caught on their hike were on the menu for dinner.

Lunch on a log

As the morning lengthened towards noon we began to search for a lunch and swimming spot. Most of the early trail was too far above the shoreline to allow easy access. We finally located a suitable spot, setting up our potluck picnic lunch on a log. The display of food ranged through bite-sized sandwiches, hard-boiled eggs, blueberry muffins, fresh cantaloupe, cold fish bits with dipping sauce, delicious healthy cookies, banana bread, a Manchego cheese wedge, fresh bruschetta and french bread and a couple of bottles of chilled wine. Did I mention Slovenian chocolate? That too. After indulging ourselves, we had to pack half of it back out!

Photo J. McCoy

Next on the agenda was a swim. Well, maybe a dip. Stripping down to or changing into our swim apparel we negotiated the slippery boulders at the entry point, taking the foolishly slow immersion option until slipping entirely into the chilly waters, gasping in surprise and finally hollering in breathy phrasing "it's nice!" Paddling about in the lakey-smelling water we later learned there was a green algae bloom in the lake. In our ignorance we enjoyed the varying temperature spots near the shore and the wonderful cooling effect on hot feet and sweaty bodies.

Once again in hiking attire we resumed our course, heading for the southwestern tip of the lake where a 110 foot high earth-filled dam holds the reservoir in place, releasing water for PGE power production and Clackamas County drinking water. A couple of us begged off for the final three miles of the eight mile trek, needing to rest cranky joints. A timely wooden bench appeared at the Oak Fork campground, affording us a view with comforts of drinking water and restrooms. The others continued on to the Pine Point campground for a connection with a vehicle to pick us up and take us all back to our parked cars at Little Crater Lake. Our wait time was filled with conversation and hails to kayakers paddling on the calm, expansive waters. Riding in the back of a pickup truck, hair blowing about in the air flow, dog napping against his owner's shoulder, we closed out another great day on the trail. A golden sunset completed the adventure of today's hike. Timothy Lake is a very popular area for camping, day use and hiking so take your pick and enjoy one of Oregon's natural treasures.