Journalist By Nature: A Goldilocks Day

High summer day

The stifling heat of our July was waning. The hike meet-up was earlier than usual. There were just enough seats for all the hikers. The day was beautifully open before us. This promised to be a quintessential summer day! With a destination bearing of NNE we headed up the Columbia River Gorge to cross at the Bridge of the Gods, take a right heading through Stevenson, a left at Carson and searched for FR90 to arrive at Lower Lewis River Falls Campground. This area is midway between Mt. St. Helens and Mt. Adams in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest in Washington. We debated as to the correct pronunciation of the Wind River Road: wind as in breezy or wind as in curving as it was both. Pausing at the McClellen View Point we were prevented by clouds from seeing any view but planned to stop on our way back to see the famed Mt. St. Helens' blow-out side. Although a two hour drive from the Portland area, the trip is well worth the time and effort, and should include a plan to camp for a night or two if you can manage it, or at least a picnic lunch and dinner.

Lower Lewis River Falls

Arriving at our trailhead, we could hear the sound of cascading water and walked a short distance to the viewing platform at the Lower Lewis River Falls. A collective "oh!" leapt from our mouths as we gazed upon the flow of water over a flat bed of basalt, logs lying helter skelter at the edges of the rocks. Unbelievably clear water pooled below the falls revealing levels of river rock and tiers of basalt along the riverbed. We dallied at this first photo opportunity, trying different angles and exposures in an attempt to capture the full beauty of this spot. Our leader promised more delights if we would only start our hike so we reluctantly headed upriver on the main trail out of the campground.

Aging split rail fencing on the trail

The trail is wide, soft with fir needles and wanders through a Douglas fir, cedar, hemlock and speckled alder forest that towers above what appears to be a floating forest floor of ferns. The mosses on the ground are obscured by the heavy next-level growth of sword and horsetail ferns, native Oregon grape, vine maple and young alder, accented by dots of colorful purple penstemon and yellow monkey flowers. Maidenhair ferns cling to the damp and dripping walls of basalt along the trail, marking the boggy sections underfoot. Slanting mid-morning sunlight streaks through the trees to make shadows on the trail and give the water of the river an aqua-green cast as it flows over brownish colored rocks and sheets of basalt. The shallow level of the summer runoff causes the river to bump over its boulder-strewn bottom to create that pleasant babbling river sound of breaking water. The whitecaps in the current break up the otherwise smooth flow of the river as it heads for the Columbia River basin.

Middle Lewis River Falls

A mile or so into the hike brings you to the Middle Lewis River Falls, a less impressive, smaller waterfall that slides over a rounded dam of moss-dotted basalt, slipping into the forest shadows on the far side of the river. There are occasional access points to the river along the trail before it climbs 500 feet to reach the Upper Falls. Portions of the trail are covered in talus, making footing a bit uncertain and corresponding to the dripping basalt walls close at hand. A recent incident of a random falling rock hitting and breaking the arm of a hiker in the Oneonata Gorge serves as a warning about hiking in rocky areas. Be aware of the risks associated with your hikes.

Aged firs, some ten feet in diameter, others mere remnants of a previous life populate the woodlands. A large, downed cedar spewed its branches over the trail and scented the air with its characteristic sweet odor, having been sawn in pieces to allow continued access to the trail at one point. It was reminiscent of newly sharpened pencils on the first day of school and crackling kindling feeding a campfire at dusk. Stopping for lunch just below the Upper Falls we found tree rounds and mossy logs for seating and a view of the falls with its splashing water a pleasant companion for conversation and meditation. Crossing a wooden bridge we scrambled up a little hill to absorb the Upper Falls' glory. A wide ledge of basalt and an irregular surface guide the river into differing patterns of cascading water. On the right side the water falls in straight narrow sections. The left side is more dramatic with a gushing current tumbling around a bend and falling into a foaming pool at the base of the wall. Again, it was a captivating sight that kept photographers busy snapping various shots. As with many sunlit waterfalls, the colors and water shapes change with the angle of the sunlight, making the scene seductive and siren-like.

Upper Lewis River Falls

At this 3.5 mile point some of our group chose to go further up the trail to discover more waterfalls. From this switchback turn, the trail gets steeper and more rocky. Some hikers chose to return to the campground, others waited for the venturing few. It was a delightful resting place as kids and moms joined us and then climbed down to the water to play for a time. As we all finally began the return portion of our hike, we noticed the lengthening shadows, the changing colors and the heavier air quality of mid-afternoon. Once back at the campground we pulled off hot and dirty hiking shoes, slipped on air-allowing sandals and piled into our trucks for a pleasant drive back to Stevenson. There we located the Big River Grill, famed for its quality food in a tiny town, and relaxed over spinach and portabello mushroom ravioli with tomato pesto sauce, reuben sandwiches and Tillamook cheese, bacon and pepper burgers with a side of sweet potato fries. A birthday girl was awarded marionberry pie ala mode, which she graciously shared around the table of eleven. Although the day grew long, the comfortable friendships made the time fly by as we determined to return to the Lewis River area for more exploration. It was indeed a Goldilocks just right kind of day.