Art in the Pearl: The Nature of Urban Portland

Pottery

Cement and towering buildings would not immediately bring to mind thoughts of nature, but there are urban pockets of greenery about town and the Park Blocks are one such location. The Labor Day weekend marks the Art in the Pearl celebration of local artists and their wares, as varied as any complex tapestry. The waves of people wandering through the tent exhibits add another element of interest as do the smells of various ethnic foods wafting through it all.

Huge trees offer shade to the fair goers and while the green grass is quite marginalized by tromping feet, it will be revitalized once the event is over. As the sun courses east to west, the shadows shift, offering respite from the hot sun. Many restaurants offer patio seating and scrumptious menus throughout the Pearl district, so it is fun to make a day of it, get your art dose for the month and try out new eateries along the way.

The MAX train, city trolleys and buses are an engaging way to travel through the downtown areas. The schedules offer frequent stops and connections and the people watching is a bonus. The nature of urban Portland is in the small spots: various shops, tree-lined streets, shop front planter decor and rooftop gardens. The sidewalk trails are harder on the feet than needle-padded forest trails, the tall buildings replace towering trees but there are birds, squirrels and plenty of dogs and other pets to entertain the city walker.

Take a break from your local routine and enter the nature of urban Portland. See what delights you can discover on your journey through the cement and brick forest.

Pets of all kinds

Makin' use of his time

Water + kids = fun!

Light and dark

Street, rooftop and sky levels of interest

Plein air street painting

Weaving

Woodcarving

The lunch bunch

Glassworks

Whole plank table

Repurposed items: "Take time to play".

Federal Customs House

Indian dancer

Plastic totems 

Cape Horn Loop, Rain or Shine

Frequent outerwear changes

Hwy 14 clinging to the hillside

Cape Horn trail, a 7.5 mile loop hugging the steep rocky cliffs above the Washington side of the Columbia River, is a view-laden hike at MP 26.5 on Highway 14.  The weather report forecast 80 degrees with 10% chance of rain. The actual trail conditions proved otherwise. Cloud-filled skies in various shades of grey sent a confusing message as to what to expect. The damp, muggy air seemed to require a lightweight jacket, but the exertion on the trail quickly made us stop and get down to basic shirtsleeves. The occasional patter of raindrops kept us donning and removing hats until we decided that we would just press on, regardless of what the sky brought to us.

Sand Dollar-like mushroom

The moisture kept the usually dusty trail damp and occasionally muddy. A hint of fall color popped into view from time to time, giving notice of the changing season about to arrive. Angry squirrels chattered as we entered their territory, urging us to hurry on our way. But the viewpoints along the trail, whether full river waterscapes or tiny glimpses through the shady leaf understory, gave us pause to stop and revel in the magnificent Columbia River waterway as is winds its way west to the Pacific Ocean.

Japanese thistle, Cirsium japonicum, with caterpiller

Eight steep switchbacks and an equal number of weather changes brought us to the top of the hill, onto a road, across a field and down to the newly constructed Nancy Russell Memorial viewpoint. It is accessible to disabled travelers as well as able-bodied hikers and offers a splendid resting point with "the hills are alive with the sound of music" vistas east and west along the mighty Columbia River. Weather patterns can be seen coming and going through the Gorge as well as ships and barges, the occasional falcon and LifeFlight helicopters returning to their base upriver at Dallasport . Bring a snack or lunch and linger at this lovely spiral shaped, stone-lined enclosure high above the river. Imagine Lewis and Clark forging through the canyon before dams raised the water level and smoothed out the cataracts. There is so much history to consider while taking in the scene.

Needle cloaked trail 

View from Nancy Russell Memorial

New tunnel under Hwy 14

Leafy forest umbrella

An unreachable beach

The lower half of the hike is a challenging section of several talus piles traversed by steep switchback trails that require slow and very careful treading. A drenching downpour caught us on one such section, but the water was so refreshing to us that we hardly noticed our dampening clothing. Once under the leafy green umbrella of the understory trees, the rain didn't touch us at all and the trail remained dry in spots.  The steep ascent and descent were tedious, but the views from the edge of the cliff to the lower stretches of rocky beach or water were worth the work.

One of the talus trail sections

As the rains came and went, the delicate sound of water dripping through the various layers of boughs and leaves followed us along the trail. The gathering waters began to hydrate the dry stream beds and soak into the surrounding ground. The teasing sound of rain shower runoff lent a cooling sensation to the otherwise muggy air.

Just as we declared ourselves officially tired, the lower parking area came into view with our waiting vehicle there to transport us up the final 1.5 mile steep road to the trailhead. The two car method is really the best as that last stretch of roadway is more than weary legs want to tackle. The drive is beautiful as is passes hidden farms, meadows and ranches tucked into the hillside above the river but unseen from the water below.

Steep, rocky and wet

This hike is close to the Portland/Vancouver Metro area and can be done in pieces or as a whole. Trekking poles and good hiking shoes or boots are essential to a safe hike, as well as plenty of water and an energy-charged snack or two. The fall color will be spectacular as the vine maples begin to turn brilliant reds and yellows and the leaves fall, opening up more view peep holes. Take the time to see this wonderful part of the Gorge and appreciate the grandeur of the Columbia River basin.

Lower trail view upriver

Steep descent 

Water sliding down a rock wall

Champoeg State Park

Birthday bicyclists

Champoeg State Park, east of Interstate 5 at exit 278, is an historic site for picnics, bicycling, weddings, frisbee golf and birthday parties. Gathering our cycling gear, we headed for the Riverside Trail, an 8 mile loop that takes in all the points of interest in the park including the Oak Grove, camping yurts, the Pioneer Mother's house, the Pioneer School and the Butteville Store.

Riverside Trail

The trail is largely flat with a couple of briefly challenging hills, but the reward is the return down hill at a high rate of speed! The carefully salvaged deciduous forest overhangs the trail, sheltering it from the hot summer sun but opening to the sky in the fall and winter season. Paved and wide, the trail gently winds along the Willamette River where boat motors and laughter mingle with camper sounds. The Oak Grove has large areas for play, frisbee golf and group activities including a wedding on this particular day.

Rockin' on the Butteville store porch

The Butteville Store greets visitors with the smell of freshly churned ice cream and a visual treat of old photographs of the area. One framed piece is an intricately pieced quilt made from silk cigar wrappers of nearly 150 years ago, completed by the granddaughter of the smoker. Interesting history storybooks for children are available as are various craft items and souvenirs.

Silk cigar wrappers quilt 

Woodie Teardrop trailer

Elvis, the blue-gold parrot macaw

 When touring any public area, interesting sights are sure to pop up. The Woodie teardrop trailer, a tribute to the old Woodies of the 1940 Pontiac Special Series, was a piece of fine craftsmanship. We marveled at the tiny doorway but it's not much different from crawling through a tent flap. The blue-gold parrot macaw Elvis really made the surprise award on this trip. Sitting in his large cage which was strapped to a hand cart, Elvis seemed to be enjoying his stroll through the forest. It wasn't exactly a Caribbean Rain Forest, his native land, but outdoors nonetheless. His owners had rescued him and were already creating a trust for his future long life and a younger owner when the present ones move on. Devoted "parents" for sure!

Willamette River

The birthday picnic under a stand of oak trees was a delightful blend of pineapple cucumber gazpacho, wraps, munchies and several desserts with accompanying adult beverages. Laughter among dear friends added the final dimension to a memorable setting as another year was feted in style.

Cake with carrot candle and Frito flame

Shiver me timbers Cap'n Sparrow

Consider Champoeg State Park for your next family or group activity, whether a day event or a weekend yurt experience. The history associated with this spot is worth investigating and appreciating and the Pioneer School is a traditional fall rite of passage when studying Oregon history. Take advantage of what  your tax dollars support and visit the 622 acre park soon!

Table Rock Adventures

Totally flat!

The usually annual hike to Table Rock, out of Molalla, is eagerly anticipated not only for the 360 degree view of the Cascade Range peaks and surrounding hills but also for the gourmet picnic lunch we pack in to share. Eight hikers rendezvoused in Molalla early in the morning to caravan to the trailhead, another hour's drive to the southeast. Gradually narrowing and degrading roads lead deep into the forest, past campsites, along the river and through the alder and evergreen forest of the Molalla River-Table Rock Recreation Area.

Conclave of female problem solvers

 Just out of cell range and nearing our destination, the truck bearing six of our hikers pulled over, alerted by an electronic monitoring alarm, to discover a quickly deflating rear tire. Initial reaction? A head slap and a few choice words muttered under the breath. The plan? Get 'er changed and keep movin' ! But the size of the vehicle and the weight of the tire were daunting. Usually we see no other cars on our deep woods hikes, but within minutes a car bearing two women and a man pulled up behind us to offer help! Pete was mechanically inclined, patient, kind and worked well with a group of women talking and trying to be helpful. A true gentleman.

Pete, our tire changer

Carole and Pete struggle to free the spare

Carole took the lead, suggested locating the vehicle instruction book, and worked with Joyce to locate the jack pack. Having never been previously needed, it was all tucked neatly and deeply under the rear seat, factory sealed. While designed by a talented engineer, the field test of this equipment and its spare tire partner proved to be challenging and not so intuitive as in olden days of popping the trunk and gettin' to it. There was assembly required prior to use, then the hunt for operational holes followed by a puzzle of sequencing moves to locate, engage and lower the spare tire.

Ryan firms up the lugs nuts

Once this had occurred the removal and replacement of the tire was a snap. And just when we needed more muscle, another car arrived, stocked with young, curious and able-bodied teen boys who were eager to have a turn at the lug nuts. Banter greased the task of loosening the nuts, jacking up the car, trading out the tires and tightening the nuts once again. When everyone had a turn, the equipment was loaded in the back of the truck and hands were either pants-wiped or water washed and we all waved a cheery 'bye and headed for the trailhead. Only took an hour and six new friends.

Good as new!

The trailhead begins along an old access road, narrowed by the encroaching oxeye daisies, alder and thimbleberries. After 1.3 miles the trailhead leads up into the forest, up, up and up 1500 feet in elevation gain over 2.5 miles. The day was overcast to hazy with a mugginess that sapped our energy and made breathing labored for some. Frequent stops for water and air made the trip a bit longer, but that gave time to enjoy the scene.

Thimbleberries

The Hemlock needle-cushioned trail bed was so soft to walk on as we took in the tall upper story of Douglas fir, Spruce and Hemlock, the middle story of alder with its splotchy bark and the understory of glossy-leaved Rhododendrons, spent of blooms but looking very hydrated. In the mix were burned and rotted ancient tree stumps slowly deteriorating to renew the soil below. White oxeye daisies and yarrow appeared as crumbs leading us through the forest, their brightness in contrast to the deep greens of the forest. Orange Indian paintbrush, purple Penstemmon and other late summer flowers dotted the trail as well as bright red, delicate and tangy Thimbleberries ripe with juicy sweetness.

Layers of hills

Tree root without soil

The sunlight played through the leaves of the vine maple and little critter holes provided safe haven for peering eyes at the chattering hikers. The creek beds were seeping rather than streaming but still providing cool pockets of air that refreshed the hot hikers. A soft breeze would waft through from time to time, also offering a cool respite from the heavy air. Tall trees, growing on the deeply angled slopes begin to curve over time in an attempt to remain upright, creating a ship's bow appearance. This type of growth would be what Norsemen of another time and place would seek out for their ocean-going vessels.

The quietness of this place allows the hiker to listen to the winds whispering through the treetops, perhaps issuing an alert to the changing season about to come. The buzzing of honey bees, yellow jackets and biting flies adds another layer of sounds. Ouch! adds yet another layer. The occasional airplane hum or distant gun report fade as we trudge towards the summit. Pikas, or rock rabbits, cheep in birdlike sounds warning of "enemy" approaches to their rocky lairs as we cross the great rock slide portion of the hike. It's slow going as the rocks are large, the pathway vague and the downward steepness of the trail a trip hazzard. Thankfully, a crew had cleared the heavy vegetation from this portion, making navigation more focused.

Picnic on the top

Deep blue gentians were our reward for safe crossing and highlighted the trail to the top. The question "are we there  yet" began to be repeated as we were losing energy and leg power as well as anticipating that gourmet picnic each of us was carrying. When we felt we couldn't go a step further, the basalt summit appeared and we made our way to the flat picnic top. Spreading a civilizing tablecloth on the rocky ground, we began to unpack delicious items: salmon spread, rice crackers, grapes, apples, green olive tapenade, stuffed mini peppers, peanut butter balls, chocolate pecan tart, Belgium almond chocolate bars and wine. While the view was somewhat obscured by the haze, we could see Mt. Hood in its usual place, barely mantled in spots of snow. The other glorious peaks from Baker to Jefferson remained imaginary this time around. Nonetheless, we refreshed ourselves, both body and soul, on the fare and slowly packed up for the descent.

Blue Gentian

Trekking poles are a definite necessity on such a steep downward trail, helping to offset the pounding of each step. Plenty of water is one of the Essential 10 items hikers should carry but we met several people with children on the trail who either had none or very little. People also start hiking late in the day and we always wonder what they are thinking to put themselves and others in distress or danger. We gently "preach" to these trail users but realize that people are responsible for themselves and the consequences of their choices. Even the most prepared hikers encounter life-threatening situations. Enough said.

The 7.6 mile hike was a great challenge and another reminder of the beauty and grandeur of the Pacific Northwest's forests. Plan a safe trip before the weather closes in for the winter and discover another part of nature close to home. You never know what new adventure awaits you!

Table Rock and rock slide

Crossing the great slide

Shades of blue

Descending the ridge

Hikers of the day

Red berried shrub