Cape Horn Loop, Rain or Shine

Frequent outerwear changes

Hwy 14 clinging to the hillside

Cape Horn trail, a 7.5 mile loop hugging the steep rocky cliffs above the Washington side of the Columbia River, is a view-laden hike at MP 26.5 on Highway 14.  The weather report forecast 80 degrees with 10% chance of rain. The actual trail conditions proved otherwise. Cloud-filled skies in various shades of grey sent a confusing message as to what to expect. The damp, muggy air seemed to require a lightweight jacket, but the exertion on the trail quickly made us stop and get down to basic shirtsleeves. The occasional patter of raindrops kept us donning and removing hats until we decided that we would just press on, regardless of what the sky brought to us.

Sand Dollar-like mushroom

The moisture kept the usually dusty trail damp and occasionally muddy. A hint of fall color popped into view from time to time, giving notice of the changing season about to arrive. Angry squirrels chattered as we entered their territory, urging us to hurry on our way. But the viewpoints along the trail, whether full river waterscapes or tiny glimpses through the shady leaf understory, gave us pause to stop and revel in the magnificent Columbia River waterway as is winds its way west to the Pacific Ocean.

Japanese thistle, Cirsium japonicum, with caterpiller

Eight steep switchbacks and an equal number of weather changes brought us to the top of the hill, onto a road, across a field and down to the newly constructed Nancy Russell Memorial viewpoint. It is accessible to disabled travelers as well as able-bodied hikers and offers a splendid resting point with "the hills are alive with the sound of music" vistas east and west along the mighty Columbia River. Weather patterns can be seen coming and going through the Gorge as well as ships and barges, the occasional falcon and LifeFlight helicopters returning to their base upriver at Dallasport . Bring a snack or lunch and linger at this lovely spiral shaped, stone-lined enclosure high above the river. Imagine Lewis and Clark forging through the canyon before dams raised the water level and smoothed out the cataracts. There is so much history to consider while taking in the scene.

Needle cloaked trail 

View from Nancy Russell Memorial

New tunnel under Hwy 14

Leafy forest umbrella

An unreachable beach

The lower half of the hike is a challenging section of several talus piles traversed by steep switchback trails that require slow and very careful treading. A drenching downpour caught us on one such section, but the water was so refreshing to us that we hardly noticed our dampening clothing. Once under the leafy green umbrella of the understory trees, the rain didn't touch us at all and the trail remained dry in spots.  The steep ascent and descent were tedious, but the views from the edge of the cliff to the lower stretches of rocky beach or water were worth the work.

One of the talus trail sections

As the rains came and went, the delicate sound of water dripping through the various layers of boughs and leaves followed us along the trail. The gathering waters began to hydrate the dry stream beds and soak into the surrounding ground. The teasing sound of rain shower runoff lent a cooling sensation to the otherwise muggy air.

Just as we declared ourselves officially tired, the lower parking area came into view with our waiting vehicle there to transport us up the final 1.5 mile steep road to the trailhead. The two car method is really the best as that last stretch of roadway is more than weary legs want to tackle. The drive is beautiful as is passes hidden farms, meadows and ranches tucked into the hillside above the river but unseen from the water below.

Steep, rocky and wet

This hike is close to the Portland/Vancouver Metro area and can be done in pieces or as a whole. Trekking poles and good hiking shoes or boots are essential to a safe hike, as well as plenty of water and an energy-charged snack or two. The fall color will be spectacular as the vine maples begin to turn brilliant reds and yellows and the leaves fall, opening up more view peep holes. Take the time to see this wonderful part of the Gorge and appreciate the grandeur of the Columbia River basin.

Lower trail view upriver

Steep descent 

Water sliding down a rock wall