Journalist By Nature: Timberline Trail to Zig Zag Canyon

Mt. Hood in summer nakedness

Blue sky day. Cooler elevation. Early start. The ingredients for another great hike were all in place. Arriving at Timberline Lodge we joined the hoard of people scrambling for a place on the mountain: Snow skiers in full gear, those die-hard, year-round souls who ride the Palmer Lift above Silcox Hut to the top of the glacier and get their summer thrills racing down the salted ice; tourists in summer garb taking in the magnificent sights of Mt. Hood; throngs of young people out for a day's adventure; families following just any old trail to see where it goes; elderly couples lovingly reliving trail memories in low gear; serious backpackers from around the country and world following the Pacific Crest Trail from Mexico to Canada; Lodge staff in neon green shirts who've seen them all.

Shaking on our backpacks we stopped for a group picture on the steps of the Lodge and proceeded to the trailhead behind the building. A cool breeze fluffed our hair and unsettled our hats as we climbed the rope-edged pathway toward the lift areas to the west. Sunglasses and lots of sunscreen are requirements for bodily protection at this 6000 foot elevation. Due to the volcanic elements of this site the trail is a comfortable grit and sand surface, packed tight under thousands of feet treading for adventure.

At the quarter mile point a registration kiosk sports a waiting line as national wilderness areas require notification of entry. There is even a "how to" illustration for those who have difficulty filling out the form. Despite this subtle cautionary implication, there are still people who undertake the trail without proper understanding and appreciation of the rigors and dangers of wilderness hiking and backpacking. We encounter a well-prepared and seasoned father and son who are heading out for an overnighter to Paradise Park, a 12 mile round trip. Seth, the excited and chatty 10 year old innocently informs us that he just returned from Machu Picchu in Peru the previous night, was taking this overnight backpacking trip and would return to make the Oregon State football game on Saturday before starting soccer practice on Tuesday. Warming to his life story he informed us that he was in a Spanish immersion school and would like to grow up to be an inventor who makes lots of money which he would use to transition into an investing career. His father just smiled.

Mt. Jefferson

Moving down the trail we stop frequently to enjoy the expansive views to the south, most notably the snow-capped peak of Mt. Jefferson in Central Oregon as well as the faintly visible tops of the other peaks clustered in that area. The rolling shades of green forested hills undulate below the higher named pinnacles of the Cascade Range to the south. Tiny blue pools dot the basins of this area, calling up memories of previous hikes to Mirror, Timothy and Trillium Lakes. Purple lupine and asters with occasional yellow daisies and white cat's ears coat the timberline slopes of Mt. Hood in a mantle of late summer color. Diminutive hemlocks display their hardy efforts at new growth in the short season of dry warmth on the mountain before 36 feet of snow bury them for the winter.

Skirting along the knees of the mountain, the Timberline trail follows a slowly descending angle toward Little Zig Zag Canyon, a mere hint at the larger and more dramatic one to come. The shade of the fir trees in the early morning light makes the hike delightfully pleasant and relatively easy. Heading down the slope of the canyon we deftly step across the summer trickle of water at the base and march up the rocky opposite side and into more cool forest. The overhead ski lifts are busy hauling a few sightseers and hikers up the mountain but they seem to yearn for the heavy traffic of winter snow enthusiasts.

Zig Zag Canyon

At the 2.2 mile mark we rise to the edge of the giant, boulder-strewn Zig Zag Canyon, topped by the pillars of Mississippi Head and crowned with skimpy glaciers that feed the rushing river below. Without its winter beauty of deep, white snow Mt. Hood takes on a rugged grey appearance of sand and rocks caught in a freeze-frame of sliding decomposition. Boulders hang suspended in mid-slide along the canyon walls, waiting for some unseen force to dislodge them and send them tumbling again. There is a certain silence here that makes you aware of the sleeping forces below the angled surface. The wind whispers through the treetops and tiny blue butterflies punctuate the otherwise quiet scene. The wise will respect this wilderness and its danger potential as well as its grand beauty.

Volcanic cairn

Part of our group determined to hike to the bottom of this canyon while others remained at the upper edge to await their return. It came earlier than expected as they reported that the lower portion of the trail was extremely steep and more of a challenge than they wanted today. Lunching by the cairn here we soaked in the views of rugged beauty of this canyon and distant meadows of Paradise Park. A steady but subdued flow of water issued from the glaciers while other water seeped through the grit halfway down the canyon and slithered into the small river. Seth and his father lunched with us before heading out for their campsite. The precocious boy greeted us like old friends and continued his monologue as if no time had elapsed since our last contact. He and his father create trail stories as they hike to pass the time and miles. We wished them well as they departed from us. Gathering our gear we headed back to the Lodge on a now ascending path that seemed to be steeper than when we arrived. The higher elevation added to our need for frequent stops to catch our breath and of course take in the sweeping views to the south. We encountered dozens of other hikers just beginning their journey and traded pleasantries with some who had traveled from Europe to enjoy our Northwest scenery.

A reward at the end of our hike was to relax in Adirondack chairs on the back patio of the Lodge and gaze up at the stately face of our Mt. Hood. Although grey and stern in its summer form, this famous landmark will assume its white raiment for the winter season, once again decorating Portland's eastern skyline with its familiar visage. Take a drive to the Lodge and follow a trail on our mountain while the weather is accommodating. You won't be disappointed.